Analysis of Your Daytime Facial Cream Formulas

Thank you for sharing your two proposed formulas for a daytime facial cream and asking about their effectiveness for skin smoothing, even tone, hydration, reducing acne marks, and reducing acne inflammation.

Based on the ingredients and general formulation principles, here is an analysis of each formula:

Formula 1 Analysis

This formula contains several beneficial ingredients for the goals you mentioned:

• Ethyl Ascorbic Acid: A stable Vitamin C derivative known for brightening skin and reducing dark spots.
• Hyaluronic Acid and WaterLock: Both are excellent hydrators, helping the skin retain moisture for a plump, smooth feel.
• Hi-Quercetin®: Has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, which can help with skin recovery and potentially reduce inflammation related to acne. It is also studied for preventing scarring.
• AcneBee: (Assuming this is an anti-acne active) would target acne and inflammation.

However, there are some critical formulation issues with this recipe:

1. Missing Thickener/Emulsifier: The formula is primarily water and active ingredients. Without a thickener or emulsifier, it will not form a stable cream texture. You need to add an ingredient like Pro Polymer or Light Cream Maker to create the desired consistency and ensure the ingredients are properly dispersed.
2. Unsuitable Vitamin C: L-Ascorbic Acid (Ultra fine) is highly unstable in water-based formulas and will quickly oxidize, losing its effectiveness. It is recommended for anhydrous (water-free) formulations. Since you already have Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, which is water-soluble and stable, you should remove the L-Ascorbic Acid (Ultra fine).
3. Hi-Quercetin® for Daytime: While beneficial, Hi-Quercetin® has a dark yellow color that can make the formula dark and leave a temporary yellowish tint on the skin when applied. It is generally more suitable for night creams.
4. Missing Preservative: Any water-based formula requires a preservative to prevent microbial growth. Adding a broad-spectrum preservative like Phenoxyethanol SA is essential for product safety and shelf life.

If formulated correctly with a suitable thickener/emulsifier and preservative, and using only the stable Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, this formula could help with:

• Even Skin Tone & Reducing Dark Marks: Ethyl Ascorbic Acid can help brighten the skin and fade post-acne marks.
• Hydration: Hyaluronic Acid and WaterLock provide good moisture retention.
• Reducing Inflammation: Hi-Quercetin® and AcneBee have anti-inflammatory properties.
• Skin Smoothing: Hydration and reduced inflammation can contribute to smoother skin.

Formula 2 Analysis

This formula also contains ingredients targeting your concerns:

• Active Resveratrol™: Known for antioxidant, anti-aging, brightening, smoothing, and anti-inflammatory effects.
• Vitamin C (Ultra fine): (Same as Formula 1) Intended for brightening and collagen stimulation.
• Lactic Acid: An AHA that promotes skin cell turnover, leading to smoother texture and more even tone.
• Azelaic Acid: Helps with brightening, reducing dark spots, controlling oil, and reducing acne and inflammation.
• AcneBee: (Assuming anti-acne active) Targets acne and inflammation.

Similar to Formula 1, this formula has formulation challenges:

1. Missing Thickener/Emulsifier: Like the first formula, this is a water-based mix lacking an ingredient to create a cream texture and stabilize the formula. A thickener/emulsifier (like Pro Polymer or Light Cream Maker) and a preservative are necessary.
2. Unsuitable Vitamin C: Again, L-Ascorbic Acid (Ultra fine) is not stable in water and should be replaced with a stable water-soluble Vitamin C derivative if you wish to include it alongside the other actives.
3. Electrolyte Compatibility: Lactic Acid and Azelaic Acid are electrolytes. When choosing a thickener/emulsifier, you need one that is compatible with electrolytes (e.g., Pro Polymer or Light Cream Maker can tolerate some electrolytes, but high amounts may require adjusting the thickener percentage or method).
4. Light Sensitivity: Active Resveratrol™ is sensitive to UV light. The final product should be stored in opaque packaging to maintain its effectiveness.
5. Missing Preservative: A preservative like Phenoxyethanol SA is needed for safety and stability.

If formulated correctly with a suitable, electrolyte-compatible thickener/emulsifier and preservative, and using a stable Vitamin C derivative, this formula could potentially help with:

• Smoothing & Even Skin Tone: Lactic Acid exfoliates, while Resveratrol and Azelaic Acid contribute to brightening and reducing dark spots/marks.
• Reducing Acne Marks & Inflammation: Azelaic Acid and AcneBee directly target acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Resveratrol also has anti-inflammatory effects.
• Hydration: While not as focused on hydration as Formula 1, the base and potentially other ingredients can provide some moisture.

Summary

Both formulas contain active ingredients that can address your goals of smoothing, even tone, reducing acne marks, and reducing inflammation. However, both require significant adjustments to be functional and stable daytime creams.

Key modifications needed for both formulas:

• Add a suitable thickener/emulsifier (e.g., Pro Polymer, Light Cream Maker).
• Add a broad-spectrum preservative (e.g., Phenoxyethanol SA).
• Replace L-Ascorbic Acid (Ultra fine) with a stable water-soluble Vitamin C derivative (like Ethyl Ascorbic Acid or Ascorbyl Glucoside).

Specific considerations:

• For Formula 1, consider if you want the potential color impact of Hi-Quercetin® for daytime use, or if it's better suited for a night product.
• For Formula 2, ensure your chosen thickener/emulsifier is compatible with the electrolyte ingredients (Lactic Acid, Azelaic Acid) and use opaque packaging for the final product due to Resveratrol's light sensitivity.

By making these necessary adjustments, you can create stable and effective daytime creams targeting the benefits you desire.