Analysis and Improvement of Gel Facial Cleanser Formula for Acne-Prone Skin

Subject: Analysis of your current gel facial cleanser formula and modification advice.

Thank you for providing your facial cleanser formula and questions. Let's analyze it based on your concerns and the information from the staff replies.

Your current formula: Water, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Potassium Cocoate, Sodium chloride, Honey, Arbutin, Salicylic Acid, Methylcellulose, Perfume, PEG-8 Distearate, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Disodium EDTA.

Here are the answers to your specific questions:

1. Acne-causing or Irritating Ingredients & Adding Extracts:

   • Based on the staff's response, Sodium Laureth Sulfate is a potential irritant and can cause acne in many users. It is a strong surfactant.
   • Regarding adding extracts like Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), the staff explained that wash-off formulas are not ideal for incorporating nourishing ingredients because they are rinsed off before they can provide significant benefits to the skin. These ingredients are best used in leave-on products like serums or creams.

2. Replacing BHA with water-soluble Salicylic Acid EZ™:

   • Yes, according to the staff, you can replace the regular Salicylic Acid with Salicylic Acid EZ™ (water-soluble type). This would also help avoid the need for alcohol as a solvent for Salicylic Acid.

3. Necessity of Alcohol:

   • Alcohol (Ethyl Alcohol) is included in your current formula, likely to help dissolve the regular Salicylic Acid, as confirmed by the staff. However, the staff noted that its position late in the ingredient list suggests a very low concentration (likely less than 1%, as it's after Phenoxyethanol). If alcohol were primarily used as a solvent for Salicylic Acid, it would typically be needed at a higher percentage. While alcohol can be drying or irritating for some, especially at higher concentrations, the staff could not confirm if you are reacting to the low amount in your formula. Using a water-soluble BHA like Salicylic Acid EZ™ or Encapsulated Salicylic Acid would eliminate the need for alcohol.

4. pH of the Formula:

   • The pH of the formula cannot be determined solely from the ingredient list. As the staff suggested, the best way to know the pH is to measure it directly from the product using a pH meter or strips.

Regarding your experience with recurring acne after 3 months of use:
The staff pointed out Sodium Laureth Sulfate as a likely culprit for irritation and acne in many individuals. While other ingredients could potentially cause a reaction, SLES is a common irritant in cleansers. The recurring nature of the acne suggests your skin might be reacting negatively to one or more ingredients in the formula, with SLES being a primary suspect.

Recommendations for a gentler formula:

To make the formula gentler, less irritating, and potentially help with recurring acne while maintaining anti-acne benefits and moisture, consider these modifications:

• Replace harsh surfactants: Substitute Sodium Laureth Sulfate with milder surfactants. Examples of milder options include Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, or Decyl Glucoside. You would need to reformulate the surfactant system entirely, balancing primary and secondary surfactants (like Cocamidopropyl Betaine, which is already in your formula and is relatively mild).
• Choose a BHA type that doesn't require alcohol: Replace regular Salicylic Acid with either:
  • Salicylic Acid EZ™ (water-soluble): This is a straightforward replacement that avoids alcohol.
  • Encapsulated Salicylic Acid: The staff mentioned this type can adhere to the skin even after rinsing due to its positive charge, potentially offering more prolonged contact and efficacy in a wash-off product. They recommend leaving the cleanser on for 5-10 minutes before rinsing when using this type for best results. This might be a good option if you want enhanced BHA benefits from a wash-off product without the irritation of regular BHA or alcohol.
• Consider soothing and moisturizing ingredients suitable for wash-off: While adding potent actives like Vitamin B3 is not effective in wash-off, ingredients that help maintain skin barrier function or provide immediate soothing might be beneficial. However, the primary focus for a gentle cleanser is the surfactant system. Ingredients like Glycerin (often already present in bases) or mild humectants can help counter dryness. Allantoin is already in your formula and is known for soothing properties.
• Remove Alcohol: By switching to a BHA that doesn't require alcohol, you can eliminate Ethyl Alcohol from the formula, further reducing potential irritation.

Important Note: Creating a stable and effective cosmetic formula involves carefully balancing all ingredients, including surfactants, thickeners, pH adjusters, preservatives, and active ingredients. Simply swapping ingredients might require adjusting other parts of the formula (like thickener type/amount, pH). If you are formulating this yourself, it's recommended to research gentle cleanser formulations or consult formulation guides.

Using milder surfactants and a BHA type that avoids alcohol (like Encapsulated Salicylic Acid or Salicylic Acid EZ™) are key steps to making your cleanser gentler and potentially resolving the recurring acne issue linked to irritation from the current formula.