Analysis and Mixing Procedure for Sea Salt Hair Spray Formulation
Question
Hello team, I have a formulation for a non-aerosol Spray product, specifically a Sea Salt Hair Spray with Treatments for hair styling. I would like you to analyze the formula and ingredient ratios below to determine compatibility and expected pH balance. Based on these ingredients, is it possible for the product to be a clear, colorless liquid (since Grape Seed Extract has a dark color and some other ingredients are light yellow)? If some ingredients need to be changed, please provide recommendations. Also, please recommend the step-by-step mixing procedure (Phase: Water / Oil) for combining the ingredients.
Ingredients:
Oil phase
1% Argan Oil
1% Sweet Almond Oil
1% Jojoba Oil
3% PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
0.5% Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate)
1% Lime (Citrus Angustifolia) oil
Water phase
30% Maris Sal(Dead sea Salt)
0.5% Grape Seed Extract (Proanthocyanidins)
3% Lavender Water (Lavandula Angustifolia Water)
3% Aloe Vera Extract
3% Cucumber Extract
2% 1,3 Propanediol
5% VP/VA Copolymer (60/40, Powder)
3% Polyinylpyrrolidone K30 (PVP-30)
1% Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC)
2% Panthenol (Vitamin B5 Extra Lite)
2% Pure Keratin (Natural, Sheep wool)
2% Kerasyn (L-Cysteine)
2% Hair Collagen (Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen)
2% HydroAlgae
1% Global Guard
31% DI Water
Thank you in advance.
Answer
Formula Analysis: Sea Salt Hair Spray with Treatments
Here is an analysis of your proposed Sea Salt Hair Spray formulation:
Compatibility and pH Balance
The formula contains a mix of oil-soluble and water-soluble ingredients, along with a high concentration of Dead Sea Salt (Maris Sal) at 30%. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is included to help solubilize the oil phase into the water phase, which is necessary for a sprayable product. The high salt concentration will significantly lower the pH of the final product. This low pH is suitable for the preservative Global Guard, which is effective below pH 5.5. However, you will need to check the compatibility and stability of all other ingredients, especially the extracts and proteins, at the final pH. Some ingredients like Cucumber Extract and Aloe Vera Extract have optimal pH ranges (5-7 and 3.5-7 respectively) and heat sensitivities (avoid heat over 50°C). Panthenol is stable within pH 3.5-7.0. Pure Keratin has a pH range of 4.5-6.5. Kerasyn (L-Cysteine) is a powder that dissolves in water. Hair Collagen is a cationic ingredient, which should be compatible with other cationic or non-ionic ingredients in the formula, but potential interactions should be monitored. The high salt concentration might also affect the performance or solubility of the polymers (VP/VA Copolymer, PVP-K30).
It is crucial to measure the final pH of your formulation and adjust it if necessary to ensure optimal stability, efficacy, and compatibility of all ingredients, as well as suitability for hair (typically slightly acidic, around pH 4-5).
Achieving a Clear, Colorless Product
Based on the ingredients, achieving a perfectly clear, colorless product is unlikely. Several ingredients contribute color and/or cloudiness:
- Grape Seed Extract: This is a dark brown liquid and will impart color to the formula, even at 0.5% concentration.
- Pure Keratin: This is an amber liquid.
- Hair Collagen: This is a yellow liquid.
- Cucumber Extract: This is a light yellow liquid.
- Aloe Vera Extract: This is a light-colored liquid with a light green tint.
- HydroAlgae: This is described as a light cloudy liquid.
The combination of these natural extracts and proteins will likely result in a product that is translucent or has a yellowish/light brown/greenish tint rather than being completely clear and colorless. The solubilization of the oil phase by PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is also critical for clarity; insufficient solubilizer or incompatibility could lead to cloudiness or separation.
If a clear, colorless product is a strict requirement, you would need to consider replacing the colored extracts and proteins with colorless alternatives or derivatives, which may alter the product's intended benefits.
Mixing Procedure (Suggested Steps)
Here is a suggested mixing procedure, considering the solubility and heat sensitivity of the ingredients:
- Prepare the Main Water Base: Add DI Water to a mixing vessel. Add Maris Sal and stir until fully dissolved. Gentle heating (e.g., up to 50-60°C) may be used to help dissolve the salt, but avoid prolonged high heat.
- Add Polymers and Humectant: Once the salt is dissolved and the temperature is below 60°C, add PVP-K30 and 1,3 Propanediol. Stir until the PVP-K30 powder is fully dissolved.
- Prepare the Oil Phase with Solubilizer: In a separate container, combine Argan Oil, Sweet Almond Oil, Jojoba Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, and Lime oil. Add PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil to this oil mixture and stir well to ensure the oils are fully dispersed by the solubilizer.
- Combine Phases: Slowly add the Oil Phase mixture to the Main Water Base while stirring continuously. Use a homogenizer or high-shear mixer if available to help create a stable, uniform dispersion.
- Add Heat-Sensitive Water-Soluble Ingredients: Once the mixture is uniform and the temperature has cooled below 40°C, add Grape Seed Extract, Lavender Water, Aloe Vera Extract, Cucumber Extract, Panthenol, Pure Keratin, Kerasyn, Hair Collagen, and HydroAlgae. Stir until all ingredients are fully incorporated and dissolved/dispersed.
- Add Cationic Ingredient: Add Cetrimonium Chloride and stir until uniform.
- Add Preservative: Add Global Guard and stir until fully mixed.
- Adjust pH: Measure the pH of the final formulation. Adjust the pH to your desired range (e.g., 4.0-5.5) using a suitable acid (like Citric Acid solution) or base if necessary.
- Final Check: Check the final product for uniformity, appearance, and stability.
Always perform a small test batch first to confirm compatibility and desired results before scaling up.
Related Products Mentioned
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
Argan Oil (Virgin - Deodorized)
Cetrimonium Chloride (CTAC)
Cucumber Extract (France)
Global Guard™ K712
Grape Seed Extract (Proanthocyanidins)
Lavender Water (Lavandula Angustifolia)
Polyvinylpyrrolidone K30 (PVP-K30)
HydroAlgae™