Analysis and Recommendations for Melasma/Dark Spot Serum Formula

Question

Hello.
Please help analyze and recommend appropriate and effective usage percentages for the following formula. Also, please advise if there are any additional ingredients that should be used in conjunction with the ones listed here.

water 70.0%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:25sqirri]Niacinamide[/url:25sqirri]([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:25sqirri]Safe-B3[/url:25sqirri]™ ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:25sqirri]Vitamin B3, Niacinamide[/url:25sqirri], Switzerland) 3.0%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/111-panthenol-pro-vitamin-b5-%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B55.html:25sqirri]Panthenol/url:25sqirri 1.0%
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/1600-rose-hip-oil-chile-virgin-fresh.html:25sqirri]Rose Hip Oil[/url:25sqirri] 2.0%
สารสกัดว่านตาลเดี่ยว หรือว่านสากเหล็ก / Hypoxis A[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/149-urea-%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2-%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A1.html:25sqirri]Urea[/url:25sqirri] Root Extract 1-5% 5.0%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/68-alpha-arbutin-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%9F%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B9%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99-%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%A0%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A2.html:25sqirri]Arbutin[/url:25sqirri] 2.0%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/6976-bakuchiol-natural-retinol.html:25sqirri]Bakuchiol[/url:25sqirri] 1.0%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/whitening-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%83%E0%B8%AB%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%82%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A7/224-azelaic-acid-water-soluble.html:25sqirri]Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™)[/url:25sqirri] 3.0%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/penetration-enhancer-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/5987-dimethyl-isosorbide-isosorbide-dimethyl-ether.html:25sqirri]Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)[/url:25sqirri] 3.0%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%AD%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%A5-thickener/336-hydroxypropyl-methylcellulose-hpmc.html:25sqirri]Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose[/url:25sqirri] 0.5%
[url=https://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9B%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%9A%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B8%84%E0%B9%8C/143-glycerin-%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99.html:25sqirri]Glycerin[/url:25sqirri] 99.5% 4.0%
DMDM HYDANTOIN([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/155-phenoxyethanol-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5paraben.html:25sqirri]Phenoxyethanol[/url:25sqirri] (Extra Pure) 0.5%
[url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B4/162-witch-hazel-distilled-alcohol-free-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%8A%E0%B8%AE%E0%B8%B2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%8B%E0%B8%A5-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%A1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B5%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AE%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%A5%E0%B9%8C.html:25sqirri]Witch Hazel[/url:25sqirri] (Alcohol Free, Paraben Free) Plus [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/75-allantoin-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87-%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2.html:25sqirri]Allantoin[/url:25sqirri] 5.0%

Please advise.
Thank you.
Aun

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Analysis and Recommended Usage Percentages

Your formula is excellent and contains several key ingredients that are beneficial for treating melasma and dark spots, working synergistically.

Niacinamide (Safe-B3™) 3.0%: This is a good and effective concentration for reducing dark spots, redness, and strengthening the skin barrier. You can keep it at 3%, or if you desire more pronounced results and your skin is not sensitive, you may consider increasing it to 4-5%.
Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5) 1.0%: Helps soothe the skin, reduce inflammation, and provide moisture. 1% is an appropriate and effective amount.
Rose Hip Oil 2.0%: Contains natural fatty acids and vitamins, helping to nourish the skin, reduce scars, and provide antioxidants. 2% is a good amount in a water-based formula that needs a little extra moisture and nourishment from oil.
Hypoxis Aurea Root Extract 5.0%: Known for its skin brightening properties. Using it at 5% as you specified is on the higher side of the recommended range (1-5%), which is expected to provide good results.
Arbutin 2.0%: Alpha Arbutin at 2% concentration is supported by research for its effectiveness in inhibiting melanin production. It is suitable for reducing melasma, freckles, and dark spots. 2% is an appropriate and safe amount.
Bakuchiol 1.0%: A natural retinol-like ingredient that helps with wrinkles and dark spots with less irritation than retinol. 1% is a standard effective concentration.
Azelaic Acid (Liquid Azelaic™) 3.0%: Has properties that help reduce dark spots, inflammation, and can also help with acne. 3% is a good starting amount for general use in a formula. If you want to focus on a stronger effect for melasma, you may consider increasing the concentration, but you should test for irritation first.
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) 3.0%: A good penetration enhancer, helping to increase the absorption of other active ingredients into the skin. 3% is an appropriate amount to help boost the efficacy of other ingredients in the formula.
Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose 0.5%: A gelling agent. 0.5% will provide a serum or light gel texture, which is suitable for a formula with multiple active ingredients for easy absorption.
Glycerin 99.5% 4.0%: A good humectant, helping to draw water into the skin for moisture. 4% is an appropriate amount and does not feel overly sticky.
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure) 0.5%: A commonly used preservative. 0.5% is sufficient for preservation in this formula. (Note: DMDM Hydantoin and Phenoxyethanol are different preservatives. If you are using Phenoxyethanol at 0.5%, it is sufficient.)
Witch Hazel (Alcohol Free, Paraben Free) Plus Allantoin 5.0%: Helps soothe the skin, reduce inflammation, and provides a refreshing feel. Allantoin also aids in skin healing and reducing irritation. 5% is an appropriate amount.

Overall, the percentages of most ingredients in this formula are appropriate and effective for their intended functions.

Additional Ingredients to Consider

Your formula already contains many good active ingredients. However, if you wish to further enhance its effectiveness in reducing melasma and dark spots and improve overall skin health, you may consider adding these ingredients:

Tranexamic Acid: An ingredient that effectively helps reduce the activity of melanin-producing cells, particularly effective for melasma. It works well with Niacinamide and Arbutin. Recommended concentration is around 2-3%.
Other Antioxidants: Such as Vitamin C Derivatives (e.g., Ascorbyl Glucoside) or Ferulic Acid to help protect the skin from free radicals, which are a factor in the formation of dark spots, and to enhance the effects of other whitening agents.
Skin Barrier Support Agents: Such as Ceramides or Cholesterol/Fatty Acid blends to help strengthen the skin barrier and reduce the potential for irritation from using multiple active ingredients.

Adding these ingredients may require slightly adjusting the amount of Water or other ingredients to reach 100% total. You should also test the compatibility and stability of the formula.

Your current formula is a good base for addressing melasma and dark spots. Any adjustments or additions should be done gradually, observing your skin's response.

I hope this information is helpful. If you have any further questions, feel free to ask!