Analysis of Clinicians Complex Acne Toner: Low Irritation and BHA Solubility

Subject: Analysis of Clinicians Complex Acne Toner

Based on your questions and the ingredient list provided for Clinicians Complex Acne Toner (containing 10% AHA and 2% BHA) and your experience of low irritation despite a pH of 3-4, here's an analysis:

1. Low Irritation: While ingredients like Cola Seed Extract and Chamomilla Extract can offer some soothing benefits, a key factor influencing the irritation potential and efficacy of AHA, particularly Glycolic Acid, is the product's pH. As the staff mentioned, at a pH around 4, the effectiveness of AHA can be reduced by as much as 50%. This reduced activity at a higher pH (closer to 4) would also lead to significantly less irritation compared to a formula with the same concentration of AHA/BHA but a lower pH (e.g., closer to 3). Your pH measurement of 3-4 suggests the pH might be on the higher end of this range, contributing to the milder experience.

2. Salicylic Acid Solubility: You observed that Propylene Glycol, a common solvent for Salicylic Acid, appears after Salicylic Acid in the ingredient list, suggesting its concentration is 2% or less, which seems insufficient to dissolve 2% Salicylic Acid based on typical formulations. As the staff pointed out, it is possible that the manufacturer has not fully or clearly disclosed the form of Salicylic Acid used. Salicylic Acid can be available in different forms, including encapsulated versions, which may not require high concentrations of traditional solvents like Propylene Glycol for dispersion or release. Although proper ingredient disclosure for encapsulated forms should list the encapsulating agent, some manufacturers may only list "Salicylic Acid". This lack of complete disclosure regarding the specific form of BHA is the most likely explanation for why the solubility appears unusual based solely on the listed ingredients and their apparent order/concentration.

In summary, the lower-than-expected irritation is likely due to the product's pH being closer to 4, reducing AHA activity. The apparent discrepancy in Salicylic Acid solubility based on the Propylene Glycol concentration suggests the Salicylic Acid might be in a special form (like encapsulated) that wasn't fully disclosed in the ingredient list.