Analysis of Cosmetic Ingredients in Cream/Lotion Formula
Asked by: juron66
On: February 20, 2020
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
Based on the following list of ingredients, could you please analyze this cosmetic formulation and explain the function and properties of each ingredient?
- water
- Sorbitan Stearate
- Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides
- Stearic Acid
- Ethylhexyl Isononanoate
- Ceteareth 20
- Cetyl Palmitate
- Parfum
- Cetyl Alcohol
- Dimethicone
- Triethanolamine
- Polysorbate 20
- Ethylhexyl Stearate
- Carbomer
- Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter)
- Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
- Simmond Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
- Distarch Phosphate
- Sesamum indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil
- Rosa Canina (Rosehip fruit oil)
- Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil
- Tetrasodium EDTA
- Phenoxyethanol
- Sorbitan Caprylate
- Squalane (Olive)
- Tocopheryl Acetate
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
- Lactic Acid
Answer
Analysis of Cosmetic Ingredients
This list contains common ingredients found in cosmetic formulations, likely a cream or lotion. Here's a breakdown of the ingredients and their typical functions:
Emulsifiers and Thickeners
- Sorbitan Stearate and Ceteareth-20 are emulsifiers that help blend oil and water components in the formula, creating a stable cream or lotion texture. Sorbitan Stearate is a water-in-oil emulsifier, while Ceteareth-20 is an oil-in-water emulsifier.
- Stearic Acid and Cetyl Palmitate are fatty acids and esters that act as thickeners and emollients, contributing to the cream's texture and providing a smooth feel on the skin. Cetyl Palmitate is a wax-like ingredient that can also soften the skin.
- Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol used as a thickener and emollient. It helps increase the viscosity of creams and lotions and provides an occlusive layer on the skin to reduce water loss. It needs to be used with a cream maker and can sometimes leave a white cast.
- Polysorbate 20 is a solubilizer and emulsifier that helps disperse oils and fragrances in water-based formulas. A super-refined version is available with controlled impurity levels.
- Carbomer is a gelling agent used to create clear water gels and increase viscosity. It requires an alkaline substance like Triethanolamine to form a gel and is sensitive to electrolytes and low pH. Different grades like Carbomer 940 (EasyDisperse) and Carbomer 980 (benzene-free) are available.
- Triethanolamine is used to adjust the pH of the formulation, making it more alkaline, which is necessary for ingredients like Carbomer to gel properly and for the stability of Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate.
Emollients and Oils
- Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides are light, non-greasy emollients that moisturize the skin and help it retain moisture. They are quickly absorbed and leave a soft, smooth feel.
- Dimethicone is a silicone-based ingredient that provides a smooth, silky feel to the skin and helps form a protective barrier. Light and very light viscosity options are available. It is oil-soluble and cannot be used in water gels.
- Squalane (Olive) is a high-quality emollient derived from olives. It is similar to the skin's natural sebum, absorbs quickly, provides moisture, fights dryness, and has anti-aging properties. It is very stable.
- Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) is a natural fat known for its excellent moisturizing properties. It contains fatty acids that help retain moisture and improve skin elasticity. It is beneficial for dry skin, scars, and irritation. Ultra-Soft and Golden/Virgin grades are available.
- Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil is a natural oil rich in Omega fatty acids and Vitamin E. It is a stable emollient that nourishes the skin.
- Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil is a natural oil structurally similar to skin sebum. It moisturizes without clogging pores, is rich in Vitamin E, and can help protect from sun and soothe irritation. Deodorized versions are available.
- Rosa Canina (Rosehip fruit oil) is a natural oil known for its skin repair and moisturizing abilities. It helps reduce wrinkles, smooth skin, fade scars, and reduce redness. It is rich in essential fatty acids. Virgin and Extra Virgin grades are available.
- Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil is a natural, quickly absorbed moisturizer high in emollients, suitable for dry and irritated skin.
Vitamins and Actives
- Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable form of Vitamin E, acting as an antioxidant to protect both the formula and the skin from free radical damage.
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a stable, water-soluble form of Vitamin C (SAP). It is used for its skin brightening (whitening) properties and requires a specific pH range (7-9) and a chelating agent like Disodium EDTA for optimal stability.
- Lactic Acid is an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) often used for exfoliation and pH adjustment.
Other Ingredients
- Parfum is added for fragrance.
- Tetrasodium EDTA is a chelating agent that binds to metal ions in water, preventing them from negatively affecting the stability and effectiveness of other ingredients in the formula. It is suitable for use in products with a pH between 8-12.
- Phenoxyethanol is a common preservative used to prevent microbial growth in cosmetic products. Extra Pure and P5 grades are available with reduced impurity levels. It is effective against bacteria but less so against fungi.
- Distarch Phosphate and Sorbitan Caprylate are likely used as thickeners, texturizers, or emulsifiers.
- Ethylhexyl Isononanoate and Ethylhexyl Stearate are emollients that provide a smooth feel.
- Sesamum indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil is a natural oil used as an emollient.
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