Formulation Review: L-Ascorbic Acid, Phloretin, EGCG Serum

The formulation you provided is an interesting anhydrous (water-free) serum combining potent antioxidants: L-ascorbic acid, Phloretin, and Pure EGCG in an Isododecane and Silicone Gel base. This type of base is suitable for L-ascorbic acid as it helps maintain its stability, unlike water-based formulas where L-ascorbic acid can quickly oxidize.

Let's look at the components:

• L-ascorbic acid (Ultra-Fine): This is a highly effective form of Vitamin C. The ultra-fine powder is designed to disperse well in anhydrous systems like silicone gels, which is appropriate for your formula.
• Phloretin: An antioxidant that can enhance the effectiveness of Vitamin C. It is a powder that disperses in formulations.
• Pure EGCG: A potent antioxidant from green tea extract. It is also a powder that disperses in formulations.
• Isododecane: A light, volatile solvent that is compatible with silicones and can help disperse powders in anhydrous formulas.
• Silicone Gel: Provides the base texture for the serum, offering a smooth, non-greasy feel and is compatible with Isododecane.

Evaluation of the Mixing Method:

The proposed mixing method is a good starting point, but it can be refined to ensure better dispersion of the powders and a smoother final product.

1. Grinding L-ascorbic acid in Isododecane: This step is correct. Dispersing the L-ascorbic acid powder in Isododecane first helps to wet the powder particles and prevent clumping when added to the silicone gel.
2. Adding to Silicone Gel: This is also correct. The dispersion is added to the main base.
3. Adding Pure EGCG and Phloretin: Adding these powders directly to the mixture at this stage might lead to poor dispersion and potential clumping, as they are not truly soluble in this base but rather need to be dispersed evenly.

Suggested Improved Mixing Method:

To achieve a more homogeneous and stable dispersion of all the powders, consider this revised method:

1. Weigh all ingredients accurately.
2. In a separate container, add the Isododecane. Gradually add the L-ascorbic acid powder to the Isododecane while mixing or stirring to create a smooth dispersion. Ensure there are no dry clumps.
3. In a very small separate container, take a tiny amount of the Isododecane/L-ascorbic acid dispersion (or a separate small amount of Isododecane). Add the Pure EGCG and Phloretin powders to this small amount of liquid and disperse them thoroughly, ensuring no dry powder remains.
4. Combine the EGCG/Phloretin dispersion from step 3 with the main L-ascorbic acid dispersion from step 2. Mix well.
5. Slowly add this combined powder dispersion to the Silicone Gel base while continuously mixing. Mix until the entire formulation is uniform and smooth, with no visible powder particles or clumps.
6. Package the serum in an airtight, opaque container to protect it from light and air.
7. Store the finished product in a cool place, ideally in the refrigerator, to maintain the stability and potency of the active ingredients (L-ascorbic acid, Phloretin, EGCG).

By dispersing each powder or group of powders in a compatible liquid phase before combining them into the main base, you can achieve a much better and more stable dispersion, leading to a more effective and aesthetically pleasing serum.

This formulation appears feasible, but proper mixing technique and storage are crucial for its stability and efficacy.