Anhydrous Vitamin C Serum Formulation & Warming Sensation

Asked by: plantycoon On: January 19, 2013 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am interested in creating an anhydrous (water-free) Vitamin C serum similar to products like Kiehl's. I have a question about the formulation and the warming sensation that occurs when applying it.

Could you provide guidance on how to formulate an anhydrous Vitamin C serum? Specifically, I would like to know:

  • What is a suitable base structure for this type of serum?
  • What are the typical ingredients and their approximate percentages?
  • How should the Vitamin C powder (L-Ascorbic Acid) be incorporated into the base?
  • Why does this type of serum cause a warming or tingling sensation upon application?

Answer

Anhydrous Vitamin C Serum

Based on the staff's response, it is possible to create an anhydrous (water-free) Vitamin C serum similar to Kiehl's. The staff is currently developing a base for this purpose, which will be mixed with Vitamin C powder by the user just before use to ensure maximum freshness and efficacy.

The proposed formula structure for this anhydrous base is:

  • Propylene Glycol: 40%
  • Silicone Gel Base (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer): 40%
  • Glycerin: 5%
  • Vitamin C Ultra-Fine (L-Ascorbic Acid): 10-15% (This is added by the user)
  • Optional: Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 1% (for added skin nourishment)
  • Optional: Bisabolol: 0.5% (to reduce irritation)

Key points about this type of serum:

  • Anhydrous: Being water-free helps prevent Vitamin C oxidation, keeping it stable.
  • No Preservatives: Since bacteria require water to grow, an anhydrous formula does not need preservatives.
  • Mixing: The Silicone Gel Base helps suspend the Vitamin C powder evenly throughout the serum, preventing it from settling at the bottom. No heat is required for mixing.
  • Concentration: The proposed formula suggests adding 10-15% Vitamin C. Achieving 20% might require adjusting the percentages of other base ingredients, though the staff's current development focuses on the 10-15% range for their base.
  • Warming Sensation: The slight warming or tingling feeling upon application is normal and likely due to the high concentration of Vitamin C.
  • Mixing Service: The staff is not currently offering a mixing service but plans to sell the base for self-mixing in the future.