Anhydrous Vitamin C Serum Formulation & Warming Sensation
Asked by: plantycoon
On: January 19, 2013
Product Type:
Cosmetics
Question
I am interested in creating an anhydrous (water-free) Vitamin C serum similar to products like Kiehl's. I have a question about the formulation and the warming sensation that occurs when applying it.
Could you provide guidance on how to formulate an anhydrous Vitamin C serum? Specifically, I would like to know:
- What is a suitable base structure for this type of serum?
- What are the typical ingredients and their approximate percentages?
- How should the Vitamin C powder (L-Ascorbic Acid) be incorporated into the base?
- Why does this type of serum cause a warming or tingling sensation upon application?
Answer
Anhydrous Vitamin C Serum
Based on the staff's response, it is possible to create an anhydrous (water-free) Vitamin C serum similar to Kiehl's. The staff is currently developing a base for this purpose, which will be mixed with Vitamin C powder by the user just before use to ensure maximum freshness and efficacy.
The proposed formula structure for this anhydrous base is:
- Propylene Glycol: 40%
- Silicone Gel Base (Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer): 40%
- Glycerin: 5%
- Vitamin C Ultra-Fine (L-Ascorbic Acid): 10-15% (This is added by the user)
- Optional: Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate): 1% (for added skin nourishment)
- Optional: Bisabolol: 0.5% (to reduce irritation)
Key points about this type of serum:
- Anhydrous: Being water-free helps prevent Vitamin C oxidation, keeping it stable.
- No Preservatives: Since bacteria require water to grow, an anhydrous formula does not need preservatives.
- Mixing: The Silicone Gel Base helps suspend the Vitamin C powder evenly throughout the serum, preventing it from settling at the bottom. No heat is required for mixing.
- Concentration: The proposed formula suggests adding 10-15% Vitamin C. Achieving 20% might require adjusting the percentages of other base ingredients, though the staff's current development focuses on the 10-15% range for their base.
- Warming Sensation: The slight warming or tingling feeling upon application is normal and likely due to the high concentration of Vitamin C.
- Mixing Service: The staff is not currently offering a mixing service but plans to sell the base for self-mixing in the future.
Related Products Mentioned
Vitamin E (Tocopheryl Acetate)
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Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
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Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine)
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