Anhydrous Waterproof Bronzer/Foundation Formulation Suggestions

For an anhydrous all-over body and face bronzer/foundation that is highly waterproof, crease and transfer resistant, and feels luxurious, you will need to focus on selecting the right combination of film formers, emollients, and powders.

Here are some suggestions for key ingredients:

• Film Formers: These are crucial for achieving waterproof and transfer-resistant properties. For an anhydrous formula, you'll need film formers that are soluble or dispersible in oils or silicones. Consider options like:

  • Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene: Available in bases like Isododecane or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. These oil films provide long-lasting, waterproof wear.
  • Silicone Films (Trimethylsiloxysilicate based): Available in bases like Isododecane or Cyclopentasiloxane. These create a durable, waterproof film. Different versions offer varying levels of wear and feel, from soft to hard.
  • Silicone Film (Acrylate based): Such as Silicone Film (Medium-Wear, Soft), which provides long-lasting, waterproof properties with a soft feel.
  • Vinyl Film (VP/Hexadecene Copolymer): Forms a waterproof film and aids in pigment dispersion.
  • Fluorosilicones: Ingredients like Trifluoropropyl Methicone or Trifluoropropyl Dimethicone/Trifluoropropyl Divinyldimethicone Crosspolymer offer excellent water and oil resistance.
  • LipidSoft Resist (Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate): An ester that helps dissolve pigment and provides a coating for long-lasting, waterproof performance.

• Emollients/Carriers: Since the formula is anhydrous, you need a base that can carry the pigments and powders and provide a pleasant feel. Volatile silicones (like Cyclopentasiloxane, though its use is restricted in some regions) or Isododecane are common choices as they evaporate, leaving the film and pigments behind. Non-volatile emollients, such as esters like LipidSoft Resist or other cosmetic oils, can be included at lower levels to improve feel and spreadability, counteracting any potential dryness/tightness from the film formers.

• Powders: To provide coverage, modify texture, and contribute to a luxurious feel, incorporate cosmetic powders.

  • Boron Nitride: This is an excellent choice for adding a luxurious, silky feel and providing soft-focus properties, which can help blur imperfections and contribute to a smooth finish. It comes in different particle sizes (e.g., WhiteMatte3™, WhiteShine6™) offering varying degrees of opacity, slip, and subtle radiance.
  • Pigments: Iron Oxides (red, yellow, black) and Titanium Dioxide are essential for creating the desired bronzer/foundation shade. Ensure they are properly dispersed in the anhydrous base, potentially using a pigment dispersant or selecting pre-dispersed pigments.
  • Other Fillers: Ingredients like Silica, Mica, or Nylon-12 can be used to further refine texture, control shine, or enhance payoff.

By carefully selecting and balancing these components, you can create an anhydrous bronzer/foundation that meets your requirements for high waterproofness, resistance to creasing and transfer, and a luxurious feel on the skin.