Anti-Aging & Firming Serum Formulation for Mature Skin (55+)
Question
I am formulating an anti-aging serum for mature skin (55+) focusing on lifting, firming, and wrinkle reduction. I have some questions regarding specific ingredients and a proposed formula:
- Which combination is better for lifting, firming, and wrinkle reduction: Matrixyl 3000 + Argireline OR DMAE + Pep-Coll?
- Is it possible or advisable to use all four ingredients (Matrixyl 3000, Argireline, DMAE, and Pep-Coll) together in one formula?
- I have developed a preliminary formula and would like feedback, specifically on potential issues like stickiness and ingredient concentrations. The formula includes:
- Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) 5%
- Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate 20%
- DMAE 4%
- Ethoxydiglycol 5%
- GlucoBright™
- Alpha-Arbutin
- Tranexamic Acid
- Shea Butter Light Oil
- Rice Vitamin
- Allantoin
- Bisabolol
- Vitamin B3
- Wrinkle-Fill™
- LipidSoft™ CC
- AminoSilk™
Please advise on the ingredient combinations and review my proposed formula.
Answer
Recommendations for an Anti-Aging and Firming Serum Formula for Mature Skin (55+)
For mature skin focusing on lifting, firming, and reducing wrinkles, selecting the right ingredients is crucial. Let's consider the ingredient pairs you asked about and the formula you proposed.
Comparison of Key Ingredients
- Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR) and Pep-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5) are peptide groups that focus on stimulating collagen synthesis in the skin, which helps reduce wrinkles and increase skin elasticity. Information suggests that Pep-Coll may be more effective than Matrixyl 3000 in reducing wrinkles in certain dimensions.
- Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) is a peptide that works by reducing muscle contractions, which cause expression lines, especially around the forehead and eyes. It is suitable for existing wrinkles.
- DMAE (Dimethylaminoethanol) is an ingredient that helps with skin firmness (Skin Tightening), reduces wrinkles, and has antioxidant properties.
Considering their mechanisms of action:
- The pair Matrixyl 3000 + Argireline focuses on stimulating collagen along with muscle relaxation to reduce expression lines.
- The pair DMAE + Pep-Coll focuses on skin lifting/firming along with stimulating collagen to reduce wrinkles.
Therefore, if the primary focus is on lifting and firming, the pair DMAE + Pep-Coll may be more targeted.
Using All Four Ingredients Together
Using both Matrixyl 3000 and Pep-Coll together may not be necessary, as their primary mechanisms are similar (collagen stimulation), and Pep-Coll may offer higher efficacy. Using redundant ingredients at high concentrations might not significantly increase effectiveness but could increase the risk of irritation or texture issues.
A combination of Argireline, DMAE, and Pep-Coll appears to be a more comprehensive approach to address various skin concerns. Argireline targets expression lines, DMAE helps with firmness, and Pep-Coll stimulates collagen for wrinkle reduction and improved elasticity. However, it is advisable to avoid using both Matrixyl 3000 and Pep-Coll together in high amounts due to their overlapping functions.
Suggestions for Your Proposed Formula
Your proposed formula includes a good variety of ingredients addressing dark spots, wrinkles, and firmness. However, there are a few points to consider for improving texture and compliance:
- Stickiness: As user C7 commented, and supported by the ingredient information, Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) at a concentration of 5% can easily make the product feel sticky. Additionally, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate at 20% and DMAE at 4% could also contribute to a sticky texture. If you want to reduce stickiness, consider lowering the concentration of Vitamin B5 or adjusting the proportions of other ingredients that affect texture.
- Ethoxydiglycol: This ingredient helps enhance the penetration of active substances into the skin. However, there are concentration limits set by regulatory bodies like the FDA for leave-on products (currently not exceeding 2.6% in the EU). Using it at 5% might exceed these regulations. You should check the latest regulations and adjust the concentration accordingly.
- Other Ingredients: The other ingredients in your formula, such as GlucoBright™, Alpha-Arbutin, and Tranexamic Acid for whitening; Shea Butter Light Oil, Rice Vitamin, and Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate for moisturizing; Allantoin and Bisabolol for reducing irritation; Vitamin B3 for multiple benefits including wrinkles, dark spots, and skin barrier strength; Wrinkle-Fill™ to support wrinkle reduction; and LipidSoft™ CC and AminoSilk™ for texture improvement, are generally good ingredients that can work together effectively.
Conclusion
For skin aged 55+ focusing on lifting and wrinkle reduction, the pair DMAE + Pep-Coll is likely more effective for addressing firmness compared to the Matrixyl 3000 + Argireline pair. Using a combination of Argireline, DMAE, and Pep-Coll is a good option for targeting multiple signs of aging. However, avoid using both Matrixyl 3000 and Pep-Coll together in high amounts as their functions can overlap.
Regarding your proposed formula, you should consider reducing the concentration of Vitamin B5 and Ethoxydiglycol to improve the texture and ensure compliance with regulations.
Related Products Mentioned
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (eq Argireline)
Pep®-Coll (Palmitoyl tripeptide-5)
Pal-GHK, Pal-GQPR (eq Matrixyl 3000)
Alpha Arbutin (Switzerland)
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
Natural Bisabolol (Brazil Chamomile)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
Ethoxydiglycol (e.q. Transcutol)
AminoSilk™ (Lauroyl lysine)
LipidSoft™ CC (Cetyl Ethylhexanoate)
Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8)
Wrinkle-Fill™ (Acetyl-Tyrosine)
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
Shea Butter Light Oil