Anti-Aging Gel Serum: Troubleshooting Oil Drops, Texture, and Adding Fragrance
Question
I have formulated a water-based anti-aging gel serum using Xanthan Gum as the gelling agent. The formula also includes Mild Preserve Eco (containing Ethylhexylglycerin), Double Hyaluron Liquid, Reservoir-Tech, DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid, Plankton Artemia Extract, and Vitamin B5 ExtraLite™. I encountered issues with oil drops separating in the gel and the texture feeling sticky with poor absorption.
Based on previous discussions recommending AnyGel or increasing Xanthan Gum to fix the oil separation, I would like advice on:
- How to eliminate the oil drops and improve the stability.
- How to achieve a less sticky, faster-absorbing texture.
- Whether I can increase
Double Hyaluron Liquidto 10% and how it might affect the texture. - How to properly incorporate a small amount of oil-based fragrance into this water-based gel serum.
Answer
Anti-Aging Serum Formulation Advice
Thank you for sharing your anti-aging serum formula and the details of your mixing experience. It's great that you are experimenting with different ingredients!
You mentioned encountering oil drops in your gel and asked about improving the texture (less sticky, better absorption) and adding oil-based fragrance.
Addressing the Oil Drops and Texture
The issue of oil drops in your gel is likely due to the Ethylhexylglycerin component in Mild Preserve Eco. Ethylhexylglycerin is not directly soluble in water. While Xanthan Gum can help disperse it, achieving complete and stable dispersion in a simple water-based gel can be challenging, especially with other ingredients present.
To address this and potentially improve the texture, consider the following options, as discussed in the previous replies:
- Increase Xanthan Gum concentration: Increasing the amount of Xanthan Gum to 1.5-2.0% might help stabilize the emulsion and prevent oil separation. However, using higher concentrations of Xanthan Gum can sometimes lead to a more viscous or slightly sticky texture, which might not align with your goal of a non-sticky, fast-absorbing serum.
- Switch to AnyGel™: Replacing Xanthan Gum with AnyGel™ (Dehydroxanthan Gum) is a good alternative. AnyGel™ has excellent resistance to electrolytes (like those potentially present with DMAE) and can help emulsify water and oil phases, which would likely resolve the oil drop issue. It is also known for providing a non-greasy, fast-absorbing gel texture, which aligns well with your desired outcome.
- Consider Pro Polymer™: Pro Polymer™ is another gel maker that offers good electrolyte resistance. It can create a range of textures, but at higher concentrations, it might feel slightly sticky initially before drying to a thin film. It can also help create creamy textures in water+oil formulas.
Based on your goal for a non-sticky, fast-absorbing serum and the need to stabilize the formula with Ethylhexylglycerin and DMAE, switching to AnyGel™ seems like the most promising option.
Other Ingredients in Your Formula
- Double Hyaluron Liquid: You asked about increasing this to 10%. Double Hyaluron Liquid provides excellent hydration. Increasing the concentration will boost its moisturizing benefits. However, using Double Hyaluron Liquid at higher percentages (like 10% or more) can sometimes contribute to a slightly sticky feel, depending on the overall formula. You could try increasing it gradually to see how it affects the texture.
- Reservoir-Tech: The suggestion to use Reservoir-Tech at 3% is based on its recommended usage rate for optimal performance in helping active ingredients penetrate and be gradually released into the skin. This is a good adjustment for enhancing the efficacy of your serum.
- DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: Note that DMAE can cause irritation, especially at higher concentrations (above 5%). While your formula uses 5%, which is within the recommended range, sensitive skin might react. Adding soothing ingredients could be beneficial if irritation occurs.
- Plankton Artemia Extract and Vitamin B5 ExtraLite™ are good additions for anti-aging and skin conditioning benefits.
Adding Oil-Based Fragrance
To incorporate a small amount of oil-based fragrance into your water-based gel serum, you will need a solubilizer. A solubilizer helps disperse the oil (fragrance) evenly throughout the water phase, preventing it from separating into drops. The appropriate solubilizer and usage rate will depend on the specific fragrance oil you use.
Recommended Adjustments
To achieve a non-sticky, well-absorbed serum without oil drops:
- Replace Xanthan Gum with AnyGel™ at a concentration of 1.5-2.0% (start with 1.5% and adjust as needed to achieve desired viscosity and stability).
- Use Reservoir-Tech at 3%.
- Consider keeping Double Hyaluron Liquid at 1% initially or increasing it gradually while monitoring the texture.
- If adding oil-based fragrance, use an appropriate solubilizer according to the supplier's recommendations.
- Ensure Mild Preserve Eco is thoroughly dispersed during mixing, especially if you stick with Xanthan Gum or use a different thickener.
Remember to always perform a small test batch when modifying a formula.
Related Products Mentioned
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Double Hyaluron Liquid
Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid
Ethylhexylglycerin
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Plankton Artemia Extract
Reservoir-Tech