Anti-Aging & Moisturizing Cream Formula Review and Method

Thank you for your question and the formula you've proposed. It's a very interesting formula with several excellent ingredients focused on anti-aging and moisturizing.

Upon reviewing your formula, I noticed that the total percentage of all ingredients exceeds 100% (it sums up to 105.5%). In cosmetic formulation, the total percentage of all ingredients must equal exactly 100%. You will need to adjust the amounts of some ingredients to reach 100%.

Additionally, I'd like to point out the quantity of Phytosphingosine you included at 1%. Generally, the recommended usage rate for Phytosphingosine is around 0.05-0.1%. Using a higher amount may not be necessary and could potentially increase the risk of skin irritation.

The other ingredients you've selected are suitable for the goal of creating an anti-aging and moisturizing cream. The formula includes peptides for wrinkle reduction, moisturizers, vitamins, skin-benefiting substances, and a penetration enhancer, as well as essential emulsifiers and preservatives.

I would like to propose an adjusted formula totaling 100%, reducing the water content and Phytosphingosine amount based on the recommendations.

Proposed Adjusted Formula:

• Pal-GHK (Matrixyl 3000): 7%
• Acetyl Hexapeptide-8: 10%
• Double Hyaluron Liquid: 5%
• Safe-B3 (Niacinamide): 5%
• Acetyl glucosamine: 4%
• Yeast Resurface (Yeast Extract): 4%
• Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu): 1%
• Phytosphingosine: 0.1% (Adjusted from 1%)
• Co Q-10: 0.5%
• Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): 3%
• Satin Cream Maker: 1%
• Sweet Almond Oil: 5%
• Shea Butter (ultra soft): 5%
• Phenoxyethanol: 0.5%
• Mild Preserved Eco: 0.5%
• Water: 48.9% (Adjusted from 58%)
  Total: 100%

Method for Making the Cream:

This formula contains both water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients, as well as heat-sensitive ingredients and ingredients that require heat to dissolve. Therefore, the mixing process should be divided into phases based on the properties of the ingredients. Satin Cream Maker is a cold-process emulsifier and can be added directly to the water phase.

1. Prepare the Water Phase (Phase A): In a clean container that can withstand slight heat, combine Water, Double Hyaluron Liquid, Safe-B3, Acetyl Glucosamine, and Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI). Stir or use a mixer until all water-soluble ingredients are fully dissolved.
2. Prepare the Oil Phase (Phase B): In another container, combine Sweet Almond Oil and Shea Butter. Gently heat (around 60-70°C) until the Shea Butter is melted into the oil. Add Phytosphingosine and Co Q-10 to the warm oil phase. Stir or use a mixer/blender to dissolve or disperse them well. Let the oil phase cool slightly (below 60°C).
3. Emulsification: Add Satin Cream Maker to Phase A (Water Phase) and mix well to disperse. Slowly pour Phase B (Oil Phase) into Phase A (Water Phase) while mixing continuously with a stirrer (avoid high shear/speed exceeding 2500 rpm, as this can damage the emulsifier). Continue mixing until a smooth, homogeneous cream is formed (this typically takes about 1-10 minutes).
4. Cooling and Adding Heat-Sensitive Actives (Phase C): Once the cream has formed, continue mixing gently as the cream cools down. When the temperature drops below 40°C, add Pal-GHK, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Yeast Resurface, Copper Peptide, Phenoxyethanol, and Mild Preserved Eco. Mix gently until fully incorporated.
5. pH Adjustment: Check the pH of the final cream. The ideal pH range for the stability and efficacy of most ingredients (especially peptides and Yeast Resurface) should be around 4.5-6.5. Adjust with a suitable pH adjuster if necessary.
6. Final Check and Packaging: Ensure the cream is smooth and homogeneous. Package it in suitable containers, preferably opaque to protect light-sensitive ingredients like Co Q-10.

Additional Considerations:

• The total amount of preservatives (Phenoxyethanol 0.5% and Mild Preserved Eco 0.5%) is 1%. This may be sufficient for a general formula, but since your formula contains several natural ingredients, it is highly recommended to perform a Challenge Test to confirm the effectiveness of your preservative system.
• The product should be stored in a cool place and kept away from direct sunlight to maintain the quality of the active ingredients, especially peptides and Co Q-10.

This formula includes ingredients that effectively address wrinkle reduction, skin regeneration, and moisturization. I hope this information is helpful!