Anti-Aging Serum Formula Adjustment for Day/Night and Different Skin Types (40-55 Age Group)

Question

I am developing an anti-aging serum formula for users aged 40-55. I have a base formula and would like to adjust it for day and night use, considering different skin types (oily/combination and dry).

My proposed night formula is:

Matrixyl™ 3000: 5%
Argireline®: 10%
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 10%
Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5): 5%
L-Tyrosine (Wrinkle-Fill™): 2%
PE-1 Aqua: 2.5%
Phenoxyethanol: 0.40%
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 1% (I used 1% because DMAE makes the texture liquid, and 0.5% might not be enough. I need to check for separation if there's oil, and if so, increase Pro Polymer.)
Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 3-5% (Added to strengthen skin due to potential irritation from DMAE)
Water: Remaining amount

I removed Lift-Now (Pullulan) because its effect is temporary and Sodium PCA because Vitamin B5 at 5% makes the formula quite heavy and potentially sticky.

For a daytime formula, I would like to include Lift-Now (Pullulan) for a temporary lifting effect, but not at 5% as it would be too much and might interfere with makeup. I'm considering 1-2%.

My proposed daytime formula is:

Matrixyl™ 3000: 5%
Argireline®: 10%
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 5% (Reduced as 10% might be too sticky during the day)
Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5): 1-2% (Reduced as 5% might be too sticky during the day)
L-Tyrosine (Wrinkle-Fill™): 2%
Lift-Now™: 1-2%
PE-1 Aqua: 2.5%
Phenoxyethanol: 0.40%
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 0.5% (Used this amount to achieve a serum texture)
Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 3-5% (Added to strengthen skin due to potential irritation from DMAE)
Water: Remaining amount

Based on these formulas and considerations:

Are these formulas too complex?
Which ingredients and percentages should be adjusted further for day vs. night use?
Given that DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid can cause irritation in some individuals, should I include an anti-irritant ingredient? (I have already considered Vitamin B3 for this).
How should these formulas be adjusted for different skin types, specifically for oily/combination skin and dry skin?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Based on the discussion and the staff's recommendations for your anti-aging formula for users aged 40-55, here are the revised formulas and considerations:

Regarding your initial questions:

Is the formula too complex? The staff suggested removing ingredients with temporary effects (Lift-Now) or those that might be redundant or make the formula too heavy (Sodium PCA), simplifying the formula slightly while focusing on long-term benefits.
Which ingredients to adjust? The staff provided specific adjustments for day and night use to optimize efficacy and texture.
Should an anti-irritant be added? Yes, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) was recommended to strengthen the skin and help mitigate potential irritation from DMAE.

Here are the proposed revised formulas:

Revised Night Formula (เน้นการบำรุงเข้มข้น)
This formula focuses on intensive treatment during the night.

Matrixyl™ 3000: 5%
Argireline®: 10%
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 10%
Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5): 5%
L-Tyrosine (Wrinkle-Fill™): 2%
PE-1 Aqua: 2.5%
Phenoxyethanol: 0.40%
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 1% (Adjust as needed for desired serum texture, may need slightly more than 1% if the formula is too liquid or separates due to DMAE)
Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 3-5% (Added to strengthen skin and reduce potential irritation)
Water: Remaining amount (~59-61%)

Note:* Lift-Now and Sodium PCA were removed from the night formula as Lift-Now provides only temporary effects and Sodium PCA might make the formula too heavy when combined with 5% Panthenol.

Revised Day Formula (เน้นความสบายผิว ใช้ร่วมกับการแต่งหน้าได้ง่ายขึ้น)
This formula is adjusted for daytime wear, aiming for a lighter feel.

Matrixyl™ 3000: 5%
Argireline®: 10%
DMAE (SkinTight MD™) Liquid: 5% (Reduced to minimize potential stickiness during the day)
Panthenol (Pro Vitamin B5): 1-2% (Reduced for a lighter feel)
L-Tyrosine (Wrinkle-Fill™): 2%
Lift-Now™: 1-2% (Optional, for temporary tightening effect. Start with 1-2% and adjust. Be aware that higher concentrations might feel unnatural or interfere with makeup.)
PE-1 Aqua: 2.5%
Phenoxyethanol: 0.40%
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker): 0.5% (Adjust as needed for desired serum texture)
Disodium EDTA: 0.2%
Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide): 3-5% (Added to strengthen skin and reduce potential irritation)
Water: Remaining amount (~64-69%)

Considerations for Different Skin Types:

For Oily/Combination Skin: For users with oily or combination skin, it is recommended to remove the moisturizer ingredients from the formula. You might also consider adding an ingredient specifically designed to control skin oiliness.
For Dry Skin: The revised formulas provided above are suitable for users with dry skin.

Adding Vitamin B3 at 3-5% is recommended in both formulas to help strengthen the skin barrier and reduce the likelihood of irritation, particularly from ingredients like DMAE.

These revised formulas aim to provide effective anti-aging benefits for the 40-55 age group while considering usage time and skin type.