Serum Formula Review and Usage Advice

Thank you for providing your serum formula and questions. Here is an assessment of your formula and answers to your questions:

1. Formula Review

Your serum formula is comprehensive and includes a good selection of ingredients targeting anti-aging, moisturization, antioxidant benefits, and addressing concerns like uneven tone and minor acne. Key ingredients like Repair Activator, Adenosine, Lactobionic Acid, Japanese Cedar, Mineral Ready, Glyceryl Glucoside, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Plankton Artemia Extract, Licorice Extract, and Grape Seed Extract work together to provide a multi-faceted approach to skin aging, hydration, and protection. The inclusion of Phospholipid and Dimethyl Isosorbide also aids in the delivery of these active ingredients into the skin.

Overall, the formula is well-designed for your stated goals and skin type.

2. Using with The Ordinary L-Ascorbic Acid Powder

L-Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) is a potent antioxidant and can help with skin brightening and collagen production. However, L-Ascorbic Acid powder is highly unstable, especially in water-based formulas with a pH higher than 3.5-4.0. Your current serum formula contains several ingredients that would likely result in a pH above this optimal range for L-Ascorbic Acid stability.

Mixing L-Ascorbic Acid powder directly into your serum is not recommended. This would likely cause the Vitamin C to oxidize rapidly, losing its effectiveness and potentially creating irritating byproducts.

3. Adjusting the Formula for Compatibility

Adjusting the pH of your current serum formula down to the level required for L-Ascorbic Acid (3.5-4.0) would likely compromise the stability and efficacy of many other beneficial ingredients in your formula, such as ferments, extracts, and minerals, which function optimally at higher pH ranges. Therefore, it is not advisable to modify this serum formula to incorporate L-Ascorbic Acid powder.

If you wish to use L-Ascorbic Acid, it is best to use The Ordinary's L-Ascorbic Acid powder separately, mixed into a compatible base (like a simple anhydrous vehicle or a serum specifically formulated at a low pH for L-AA) right before application, or to use a different, more stable form of Vitamin C (like a derivative) in your serum formula if you want Vitamin C benefits within this specific serum.

4. Deep Penetration

Yes, your serum is formulated with ingredients that are known to enhance skin penetration. Phospholipid can form liposomal structures that help carry active ingredients into the skin, and Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) is a widely used solvent and penetration enhancer that improves the delivery of various active compounds into the epidermis and dermis. These ingredients help ensure that the beneficial components of your serum can reach deeper layers of the skin for more effective nourishment and results.