Anti-aging toner formulation for oily, acne-prone skin: Texture and ingredient compatibility

Asked by: oncb123 On: October 22, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics Answered

Question

I have oily, acne-prone skin and use AHA/BHA exfoliants, moisturizer, and sunscreen daily. I want to create a lightweight, non-sticky toner with anti-aging, anti-pollution, and soothing properties, avoiding silicones.

I have proposed the following formula:

  • Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) 3%
  • beta glucan 5%
  • Glycosaminoglycans Complex 3%
  • Ectoin 1%
  • Cell-Energy™ Liquid (Adenosine) 2%
  • 1,2-Hexanediol 2%
  • Laurocapram (Water Soluble penetration enhancer) 2%
  • chlorphenesin / Phenoxyethanol (Microcare PHC eq.) 1%
  • Distilled Water 81%

Could you please review this formula and provide feedback or suggestions, particularly regarding:

  • Potential issues with texture (e.g., stickiness, settling) in a watery formula?
  • Suitability for oily, acne-prone skin?
  • Compatibility of the ingredients?
  • Recommendations for preservatives or other adjustments to achieve the desired properties and texture?

Answer

Subject: Anti-aging toner for oily, acne-prone skin

Thank you for sharing your proposed toner formula and detailing your skin concerns and goals. You have oily, acne-prone skin, use AHA/BHA exfoliants, moisturizer, and sunscreen daily. You are looking for a lightweight anti-aging, anti-pollution, and soothing toner, specifically concerned about stickiness and avoiding silicones.

Your proposed formula includes:

Based on your goals and the staff's feedback, here's an assessment and suggested adjustments:

Suitability and Potential Issues:

  • Anti-aging, Anti-pollution, Soothing: The formula includes excellent ingredients for these purposes (Copper Peptide, Glycosaminoglycans Complex, Ectoin, Cell-Energy™ Liquid, beta glucan).
  • Lightweight Feel: This is a key concern.
    • Beta glucan at 5% can contribute to a thicker, potentially sticky texture, especially in a watery formula, and may settle as noted by the staff. Reducing the percentage or removing it might help with the texture and settling issue.
    • Glycosaminoglycans Complex can also add some viscosity.
    • Laurocapram is a penetration enhancer and might have a specific feel, but its primary role is delivery.
  • Oily Skin: As the staff mentioned, the current formula doesn't specifically address oil control, which is important for oily, acne-prone skin.
  • Preservative: The staff suggested Mild Preserved Eco as a milder alternative to Microcare PHC.
  • Cloudiness: Cell-Energy™ Liquid may cause cloudiness, which is a cosmetic issue but doesn't affect efficacy.

Suggested Adjustments:
To address your concerns about stickiness and oily skin, and incorporate the staff's recommendations:

  1. Beta Glucan: Consider removing beta glucan (ID 221) or significantly reducing its concentration (e.g., to 0.1-0.5%) to improve the lightweight feel and prevent settling. You already have other soothing ingredients like Ectoin and Glycosaminoglycans.
  2. Oil Control: Add an ingredient to help manage oiliness. Good options for a toner include:
    • Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) (ID 74): Effective for oil control, pores, and barrier support. Can be used at 2-5%.
    • Zinc PCA (ID 252): Known for oil control and anti-acne properties. Can be used at 0.1-0.5%.
  3. Preservative: Replace Microcare PHC (ID 1438) with Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001) at 1% as suggested by the staff for a milder option.
  4. Lightweight Feel (Optional): If the texture is still not light enough after other adjustments, you could consider adding Ethyl Alcohol (ID 706) at 5-10% as suggested by the staff, but be mindful that alcohol can be drying for some skin types, even oily ones, especially when using exfoliants. Test a small area first.
  5. Cell-Energy™ Liquid: Keep Cell-Energy™ Liquid (ID 1164) if you are okay with potential cloudiness, as it provides anti-aging benefits.

Revised Formula Consideration (Example):
This is just an example based on the suggestions. You can adjust percentages based on desired feel and efficacy.

This revised approach removes the potentially texturizing beta glucan, adds an oil control ingredient (Niacinamide), uses the suggested milder preservative, and keeps the core anti-aging/anti-pollution/soothing ingredients. The inclusion of alcohol is optional depending on your preference for skin feel and tolerance.

Remember to always patch test new formulations.