Anti-aging toner formulation for oily, acne-prone skin: Texture and ingredient compatibility
คำถาม
I have oily, acne-prone skin and use AHA/BHA exfoliants, moisturizer, and sunscreen daily. I want to create a lightweight, non-sticky toner with anti-aging, anti-pollution, and soothing properties, avoiding silicones.
I have proposed the following formula:
- Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) 3%
- beta glucan 5%
- Glycosaminoglycans Complex 3%
- Ectoin 1%
- Cell-Energy™ Liquid (Adenosine) 2%
- 1,2-Hexanediol 2%
- Laurocapram (Water Soluble penetration enhancer) 2%
- chlorphenesin / Phenoxyethanol (Microcare PHC eq.) 1%
- Distilled Water 81%
Could you please review this formula and provide feedback or suggestions, particularly regarding:
- Potential issues with texture (e.g., stickiness, settling) in a watery formula?
- Suitability for oily, acne-prone skin?
- Compatibility of the ingredients?
- Recommendations for preservatives or other adjustments to achieve the desired properties and texture?
คำตอบ
Subject: Anti-aging toner for oily, acne-prone skin
Thank you for sharing your proposed toner formula and detailing your skin concerns and goals. You have oily, acne-prone skin, use AHA/BHA exfoliants, moisturizer, and sunscreen daily. You are looking for a lightweight anti-aging, anti-pollution, and soothing toner, specifically concerned about stickiness and avoiding silicones.
Your proposed formula includes:
- Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) 3%
- beta glucan 5%
- Glycosaminoglycans Complex 3%
- Ectoin 1%
- Cell-Energy™ Liquid (Adenosine) 2%
- 1,2-Hexanediol 2%
- Laurocapram (Water Soluble penetration enhancer) 2%
- chlorphenesin / Phenoxyethanol (Microcare PHC eq.) 1%
- Distilled Water 81%
Based on your goals and the staff's feedback, here's an assessment and suggested adjustments:
Suitability and Potential Issues:
- Anti-aging, Anti-pollution, Soothing: The formula includes excellent ingredients for these purposes (Copper Peptide, Glycosaminoglycans Complex, Ectoin, Cell-Energy™ Liquid, beta glucan).
- Lightweight Feel: This is a key concern.
- Beta glucan at 5% can contribute to a thicker, potentially sticky texture, especially in a watery formula, and may settle as noted by the staff. Reducing the percentage or removing it might help with the texture and settling issue.
- Glycosaminoglycans Complex can also add some viscosity.
- Laurocapram is a penetration enhancer and might have a specific feel, but its primary role is delivery.
- Oily Skin: As the staff mentioned, the current formula doesn't specifically address oil control, which is important for oily, acne-prone skin.
- Preservative: The staff suggested Mild Preserved Eco as a milder alternative to Microcare PHC.
- Cloudiness: Cell-Energy™ Liquid may cause cloudiness, which is a cosmetic issue but doesn't affect efficacy.
Suggested Adjustments:
To address your concerns about stickiness and oily skin, and incorporate the staff's recommendations:
- Beta Glucan: Consider removing beta glucan (ID 221) or significantly reducing its concentration (e.g., to 0.1-0.5%) to improve the lightweight feel and prevent settling. You already have other soothing ingredients like Ectoin and Glycosaminoglycans.
- Oil Control: Add an ingredient to help manage oiliness. Good options for a toner include:
- Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) (ID 74): Effective for oil control, pores, and barrier support. Can be used at 2-5%.
- Zinc PCA (ID 252): Known for oil control and anti-acne properties. Can be used at 0.1-0.5%.
- Preservative: Replace Microcare PHC (ID 1438) with Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001) at 1% as suggested by the staff for a milder option.
- Lightweight Feel (Optional): If the texture is still not light enough after other adjustments, you could consider adding Ethyl Alcohol (ID 706) at 5-10% as suggested by the staff, but be mindful that alcohol can be drying for some skin types, even oily ones, especially when using exfoliants. Test a small area first.
- Cell-Energy™ Liquid: Keep Cell-Energy™ Liquid (ID 1164) if you are okay with potential cloudiness, as it provides anti-aging benefits.
Revised Formula Consideration (Example):
This is just an example based on the suggestions. You can adjust percentages based on desired feel and efficacy.
- Copper Peptide (GHK-Cu) (ID 272): 3%
- Glycosaminoglycans Complex (ID 1286): 3%
- Ectoin (ID 1299): 1%
- Cell-Energy™ Liquid (Adenosine) (ID 1164): 2% (Optional, depending on tolerance for cloudiness)
- Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) (ID 74): 3-5% (For oil control)
- 1,2-Hexanediol (ID 886): 2%
- Laurocapram (Water Soluble penetration enhancer) (ID 1585): 2%
- Mild Preserved Eco (ID 1001): 1%
- Distilled Water (ID 838): Adjust percentage to reach 100% total.
- (Optional) Ethyl Alcohol (ID 706): 5-10% (Reduce water accordingly)
This revised approach removes the potentially texturizing beta glucan, adds an oil control ingredient (Niacinamide), uses the suggested milder preservative, and keeps the core anti-aging/anti-pollution/soothing ingredients. The inclusion of alcohol is optional depending on your preference for skin feel and tolerance.
Remember to always patch test new formulations.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
Beta Glucan (Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract)
Zinc PCA
Purified Water, TDS Limit 1PPM)
1,2-Hexanediol (Super-Purified, Odorless)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)
Adenosine Liposome
Glycosaminoglycans Complex
Ectoine (Ectoin, from Bio-fermentation)
Chlorphenesin / Phenoxyethanol (Microcare PHC eq.)