Anti-Wrinkle Formula Feedback and Improvement

Asked by: konrawat.d59 On: December 18, 2018 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing an anti-wrinkle formula for dry skin and would like to get feedback on my formulation.

My formula includes the following ingredients with a total percentage of ingredients other than water being 60.2%:

  • Distilled Water (39.8%)
  • Repair Activator (originally 15%)
  • Argireline
  • Copper Peptide
  • Quick-Coll
  • Pep-Coll
  • Matrixyl 3000
  • Apple Stem Cell
  • Wrinkle-Fill
  • Wrinkle-Lax
  • RETINAT
  • Marine Plankton
  • Adenosine Triphosphate
  • DMAE
  • Alaria Esculenta Extract
  • Sea Kelp Extract
  • Hyaluronic (small molecular weight)
  • Phenoxyethanol SA

I am seeking advice on improving this formula regarding stability, texture, and ingredient usage.

Answer

Recommendations for Your Anti-Wrinkle Formula

Hello,

Thank you for sharing your anti-wrinkle formula for dry skin. Based on your formula and the feedback provided by other members/staff, here are some recommendations for modification:

  • Increase Water Percentage: The amount of distilled water (39.8%) is too low for a stable and easy-to-use formulation. It is recommended to increase the water content to at least 60%. This will require reducing the percentages of other ingredients.
  • Reduce Active Ingredient Load: Your formula contains a high concentration and a large number of active ingredients. While beneficial, this contributes to the low water percentage and can increase the complexity and cost of the formula. Consider reducing the percentages of some ingredients. For example, reducing Repair Activator from 15% to 10% as suggested.
  • Add a Base: A base is needed to give the formula a usable texture (gel or cream).
    • For a gel, add Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker) at around 2%.
    • For a cream, add Satin Cream Maker™ at around 2%. Note that Satin Cream Maker™ is recommended if your formula contains electrolytes, which yours does (DMAE).
  • Simplify Collagen Boosters: You have included several ingredients that primarily function to boost collagen synthesis (Copper Peptide, Quick-Coll, Pep-Coll, Matrixyl 3000). Using all of them might be redundant and costly. It is recommended to choose only one or two of these ingredients that you prefer or find most effective, and remove the others.
  • Consider Removing DMAE: DMAE is an electrolyte and can make formulating a stable cream or gel more challenging, especially for beginners. If you are new to DIY skincare formulation, you might consider removing DMAE from the formula to simplify the process.
  • Formula Type: As noted by the staff, the inclusion of Alaria Esculenta Extract (oil-based) means your formula will likely result in a cream texture, requiring an emulsifier like Satin Cream Maker™ if you keep this ingredient.

Revised Formula Considerations (Example based on feedback):

To achieve ~60% water and add a base (e.g., Satin Cream Maker 2%), you would need to reduce the total percentage of other ingredients from 60.2% to around 38%. This means significantly reducing the concentration or removing several ingredients.

For example, a simplified approach could involve:

  • Distilled Water: ~60%
  • Satin Cream Maker™: 2%
  • Repair Activator: 10% (reduced from 15%)
  • Argireline: 5-10% (adjust based on desired effect and total percentage)
  • Choose 1-2 collagen boosters (e.g., Matrixyl 3000 3-5%)
  • Apple Stem Cell: 1-3%
  • Wrinkle-Fill: 1-2%
  • Wrinkle-Lax: 0.5%
  • RETINAT: 1.6%
  • Marine Plankton: 1-2%
  • Adenosine Triphosphate: 1-3%
  • Alaria esculenta ex.: 0.5-1%
  • Sea Kelp Extract: 1-3%
  • Hyaluronic (small): 0.1%
  • Phenoxyethanol SA: 1%
  • Remove DMAE

This is just an example, and the exact percentages would need to be adjusted to sum up to 100% and fit within the recommended usage rates for each ingredient.

In summary, focus on increasing the water phase, adding a suitable base, simplifying the active ingredients (especially redundant ones), and potentially removing ingredients that complicate mixing if you are a beginner.

Hope this helps!