Anti-Wrinkle Gel/Cream Formulation for Sensitive/Combination Skin (including Eye Area)

Regarding your proposed formula and questions about creating an anti-wrinkle gel or cream suitable for sensitive/combination skin, including the eye area, here is a breakdown based on the ingredients and typical formulation practices:

Mixing Method

Your general mixing approach (combining water phase, adding actives, adding heat-sensitive ingredients last) is logical. However, the staff feedback correctly points out a crucial detail regarding Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC). HEC requires heating the water phase to around 70°C to dissolve properly and form a gel, followed by cooling. Your step 1 mentions heating to 60-70°C, which aligns with this requirement. However, the cooling step before adding subsequent ingredients is also important.

Choice of Gel/Cream Maker

The staff's advice about Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) is important. HEC is a good water-phase thickener but is not designed to emulsify or incorporate oil-like ingredients or ingredients in different phases, such as Full & Lift or PE-1 Aqua. Using HEC with these ingredients can lead to separation.

For a light, non-greasy, and well-absorbed texture that can effectively incorporate ingredients like Full & Lift and PE-1 Aqua, switching to a Light Cream Maker as suggested by the staff is highly recommended. Cream makers are specifically designed to create stable emulsions (creams or lotions) that can blend water and oil phases.

If you prefer a gel texture and want to include PE-1 Aqua, alternative gel makers like Pro Polymer or Pro Polymer Silk might offer better compatibility than HEC, although they have their own characteristics (e.g., Pro Polymer can feel slightly sticky, while Pro Polymer Silk is smoother but less tolerant of electrolytes and requires blending).

Ingredient Adjustments for Wrinkles and Sensitive Skin

Your formula includes several excellent anti-wrinkle and skin-soothing ingredients:

• Allantoin and Vitamin B5 (Panthenol) are great for reducing irritation, soothing skin, and providing hydration, making them suitable for sensitive skin and the eye area.
• Pitera (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate) is known for revitalizing and hydrating the skin.
• Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8) is effective for reducing expression lines, particularly around the eyes and forehead. Your proposed concentration of 5% is within the recommended range (3-10%). You could potentially increase this if needed and tolerated, but always test for sensitivity.
• Pep-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) stimulates collagen production and helps reduce the depth, length, and width of wrinkles. Your proposed concentration of 3% is the recommended usage rate.
• DMAE Liquid provides skin tightening and anti-wrinkle benefits. However, as noted in the product description and by the staff, DMAE can cause irritation, especially on sensitive or thin skin like the eye area, particularly at higher concentrations. Your proposed 5% is at the upper end of the generally recommended range (1-10%), but the description recommends 3% and advises caution above 5%. For sensitive skin and the eye area, it is strongly recommended to reduce the concentration of DMAE Liquid to 3% or even lower (e.g., 1-2%) to minimize the risk of irritation.
• Magnolia Extract (Pure-Magnolol) helps reduce irritation and allergic reactions, which is beneficial for sensitive skin.
• Full & Lift, if using a cream base, can be included for its intended lifting benefits.
• Phenonip is a preservative and is necessary to prevent microbial growth.

To address significant wrinkles, focusing on the peptides (Argireline and Pep-Coll) at effective concentrations is key. Reducing DMAE Liquid is advisable for sensitive skin around the eyes, even if it means slightly less tightening effect, prioritizing comfort and safety.

Adding PE-1 Aqua

PE-1 Aqua is a penetration enhancer. It can be added to the formula. The staff correctly pointed out that Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) may not fully emulsify it, potentially leading to separation, especially at higher concentrations (you didn't specify the desired concentration, but the staff mentioned 1% might be okay, while 3% might cause separation with HEC). If you switch to a Light Cream Maker or use Pro Polymer/Pro Polymer Silk, PE-1 Aqua is likely to integrate better.

Regardless of the base (gel or cream), PE-1 Aqua should typically be added in the cool-down phase, along with other heat-sensitive active ingredients (similar to your original steps 2 and 3, after the base has formed and cooled below 40°C). Add it gradually while stirring to ensure it incorporates evenly.

Recommended Approach & Revised Steps (Using Light Cream Maker)

Given your goals for sensitive skin, eye area use, and a non-greasy feel, and the incompatibility issues with HEC, switching to a Light Cream Maker is the most suitable option. Here is a revised approach:

Ingredients:

• Water: ~54.3% (Adjust based on total percentage of other ingredients)
• Light Cream Maker: 1-1.5% (Start with 1-1.5% and adjust for desired thickness)
• Allantoin: 0.2%
• Full & Lift: 5%
• Pitera (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate): 20%
• L-Tyrosine: 2% (Assuming it's water-soluble and compatible)
• Vitamin B5 (Panthenol): 3%
• Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8): 5%
• Pep-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5): 3%
• DMAE Liquid: 1-3% (Start lower for sensitive eye area)
• Magnolia Extract (Pure-Magnolol): 1%
• PE-1 Aqua: e.g., 1% (Adjust as needed, consider compatibility)
• Phenonip: 0.5%

Revised Mixing Steps (Using Light Cream Maker):

1. Combine Water, Allantoin, L-Tyrosine, Vitamin B5 (Panthenol), and Pitera (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate). Stir until dissolved/mixed. (Water Phase)
2. In a separate container, combine Full & Lift (if it's oil-based or requires emulsification) and Light Cream Maker. Mix well.
3. Slowly add the mixture from step 2 (Oil/Cream Maker phase) to the mixture from step 1 (Water Phase) while stirring or blending continuously until a cream texture forms. Avoid excessive high-speed blending.
4. Once the cream base has formed and cooled below 40°C, add Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8), Pep-Coll (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5), DMAE Liquid, Magnolia Extract (Pure-Magnolol), PE-1 Aqua, and Phenonip. Stir gently until all ingredients are evenly dispersed.

• Note: If L-Tyrosine, Full & Lift, or PE-1 Aqua have specific solubility or mixing requirements not covered here, please refer to their individual product instructions.*

This revised approach addresses the compatibility issues and provides a formulation base better suited for incorporating the various active ingredients while aiming for a light, non-greasy feel suitable for sensitive skin and the eye area. Remember to always perform a patch test before using the final product.