Antioxidants for Water-Free Lip Balm Shelf Life

Asked by: hammbangkok On: July 25, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am making a water-free lip balm formulation and want to achieve a shelf life of at least 1 year. I understand that for water-free formulas, antioxidants are needed instead of traditional preservatives to prevent the oils and waxes from going rancid due to oxidation.

Could you please advise on suitable antioxidants for this type of formula? I have been considering the following:

  • Rosemary Oil
  • Natural Preserve (like NaturePreserve™ LB2)
  • Vitamin E T50

Which of these, or other alternatives like Protec™ OX, would be most effective for preventing oxidation and achieving a 1-year shelf life in an oil/wax-based lip balm?

Answer

Protecting Your Water-Free Lip Balm

For a lip balm formulation that contains no water, the primary concern for extending shelf life is not microbial contamination (which requires water), but rather the oxidation of the oils and waxes in the formula. Oxidation leads to rancidity, causing unpleasant odors, flavors, and a decrease in product quality over time.

Therefore, instead of a traditional preservative (สารกันเสีย) designed to prevent bacterial or fungal growth, you need an antioxidant (สารต้านอนุมูลอิสระ) to protect the oil phase from oxidation.

Comparing the options you mentioned:

  • Rosemary Oil: This is likely referring to Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE). ROE is a natural antioxidant effective at preventing oxidation in oils. It works well, especially when combined with Vitamin E. However, it can impart a dark color and a noticeable rosemary scent to the final product, which might be undesirable in a lip balm.

  • Natural Preserve: Based on the product information, ingredients like NaturePreserve™ LB2 are broad-spectrum preservatives designed to protect water-based formulas from bacteria, yeast, and mold. Since your lip balm is water-free, this type of preservative is not necessary or effective for your specific need (preventing oxidation).

  • Vitamin E T50: This likely refers to a form of Vitamin E. Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol) is a common antioxidant used in cosmetic oils. Tocotrienols, another component of natural Vitamin E, are noted for having even higher antioxidant effects than Tocopherols. Vitamin E helps protect the oils from free radical damage and rancidity.

Other highly effective antioxidants suitable for oil-based formulas include Protec™ OX, although this is a synthetic option.

To achieve a 1-year shelf life and maintain the quality of your water-free lip balm, adding an antioxidant like Rosemary Oleoresin Extract (ROE) or Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopherol) or Tocotrienols is highly recommended. They will help prevent the oils and waxes from going rancid. The best choice depends on whether you prefer a natural option and if the color/scent of ROE is acceptable, or if you prioritize the highest antioxidant efficacy (like Tocotrienols or Protec™ OX).

Without knowing the specific oils and waxes in your formula, it's difficult to give a precise recommendation on the required concentration, but incorporating an effective antioxidant is key to achieving your desired shelf life.