Bakuchiol Serum Formulation and Mixing Questions

Asked by: arin_khem On: April 20, 2020 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have a serum formulation with the following ingredients:

  1. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B9%8D%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/6976-bakuchiol-natural-retinol.html:1a2vjei6]Bakuchiol[/url:1a2vjei6] 1%
  2. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emollient-ester-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99/2181-ppg-3-myristyl-ether.html:1a2vjei6]PPG-3 Myristyl Ether[/url:1a2vjei6] 3% (used as an oil to dissolve [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B9%8D%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2/6976-bakuchiol-natural-retinol.html:1a2vjei6]Bakuchiol[/url:1a2vjei6])
  3. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B9%8D%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2/74-vitamin-b3-niacinamide-%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B53.html:1a2vjei6]Niacinamide[/url:1a2vjei6] 5%
  4. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/penetration-enhancer-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/5987-dimethyl-isosorbide-isosorbide-dimethyl-ether.html:1a2vjei6]Dimethyl Isosorbide[/url:1a2vjei6] 3%
  5. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%AD%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%A5-thickener/234-pro-polymer-acrylate-crosspolymer.html:1a2vjei6]Pro Polymer[/url:1a2vjei6] 0.5% - 1%
  6. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A2%E0%B8%8B%E0%B9%8C%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%8C/75-allantoin-%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%82%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%99-%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%94%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%B7%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%87-%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%AB%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B9%81%E0%B8%9E%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%87%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2.html:1a2vjei6]Allantoin[/url:1a2vjei6] 0.5%
  7. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/penetration-enhancer-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/1169-phospholipid-hydrogenated-lecithin.html:1a2vjei6]Phospholipid[/url:1a2vjei6] 0.5%
  8. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/642-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:1a2vjei6]Ethylhexylglycerin[/url:1a2vjei6] ([url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A2/1001-ethylhexylglycerin-caprylyl-glycol.html:1a2vjei6]Mild Preserved Eco[/url:1a2vjei6]) 1%
  9. [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/838-%E0%B8%99%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B1%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B8%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%98%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%8C.html:1a2vjei6]Distilled Water[/url:1a2vjei6] to 100%.
    My skin type is combination. Can this formula be mixed, and how? For [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%88%E0%B9%8D%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%95%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%89%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%A2/6976-bakuchiol-natural-retinol.html:1a2vjei6]Bakuchiol[/url:1a2vjei6] which needs oil for mixing, can I use [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/%E0%B8%95%E0%B8%B1%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B0%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A2/320-butylene-glycol-%E0%B8%9A%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%97%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B5%E0%B8%99-%E0%B9%84%E0%B8%81%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%AD%E0%B8%A5.html:1a2vjei6]Butylene Glycol[/url:1a2vjei6] 3% instead of [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/emollient-ester-%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B9%80%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B4%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%84%E0%B8%A7%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B8%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%A1%E0%B8%A5%E0%B8%B7%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%99/2181-ppg-3-myristyl-ether.html:1a2vjei6]PPG-3 Myristyl Ether[/url:1a2vjei6] 3%? Is [url=http://www.myskinrecipes.com/shop/penetration-enhancer-%E0%B8%99%E0%B8%B3%E0%B8%9E%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B2%E0%B8%A3%E0%B8%AA%E0%B8%B9%E0%B9%88%E0%B8%9C%E0%B8%B4%E0%B8%A7/1169-phospholipid-hydrogenated-lecithin.html:1a2vjei6]Phospholipid[/url:1a2vjei6] 0.5% necessary to combine the water and oil phases?

Answer

Subject: Advice for Bakuchiol Serum Formulation

Hello,

Regarding the Bakuchiol serum formulation you provided:

  1. Mixability: Yes, this formulation is generally mixable, but it involves ingredients that require careful handling, particularly combining oil-soluble Bakuchiol with a water-based system using an emulsifier and thickener.
  2. Butylene Glycol vs. PPG-3 Myristyl Ether: Bakuchiol is an oil-soluble ingredient. PPG-3 Myristyl Ether is an emollient ester that acts as a suitable oil-based solvent for Bakuchiol. Butylene Glycol, however, is water-soluble and cannot effectively dissolve Bakuchiol. Therefore, you should use PPG-3 Myristyl Ether as intended in the original suggestion to dissolve the Bakuchiol.
  3. Necessity of Phospholipid: Yes, Phospholipid (Hydrogenated Lecithin) is likely necessary in this formulation. It acts as an emulsifier, helping to combine the oil phase (containing Bakuchiol dissolved in PPG-3 Myristyl Ether and Dimethyl Isosorbide) with the water phase. Without an emulsifier, the oil and water components would separate.
  4. Mixing Procedure: Here is a suggested mixing procedure:
    • Phase A (Water Phase): Weigh the distilled water. Disperse Pro Polymer in the water and mix well, allowing it to hydrate fully (this may take some time). Once hydrated, add Niacinamide and Allantoin and stir until dissolved. Add Phospholipid to this phase and mix to disperse.
    • Phase B (Oil/Solvent Phase): In a separate container, weigh PPG-3 Myristyl Ether and Dimethyl Isosorbide. Add Bakuchiol and stir until it is fully dissolved.
    • Combining Phases: Slowly add Phase B (Oil/Solvent Phase) to Phase A (Water Phase) while mixing continuously. Use a high-speed mixer or homogenizer if possible to create a stable emulsion. Continue mixing until the serum is uniform and stable.
    • Final Step: Add Ethylhexylglycerin (Mild Preserved Eco) to the mixture and stir well to incorporate.
    • Check the pH and adjust if necessary (Pro Polymer typically thickens optimally around pH 5-6).

This procedure should help you create a stable Bakuchiol serum.

Related Products Mentioned

Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Allantoin
Allantoin
Cosmetics
Pro Polymer™ (Gel Maker)
Butylene Glycol
Butylene Glycol
Cosmetics
Ethylhexylglycerin
Ethylhexylglycerin
Cosmetics
Phospholipid
Phospholipid
Cosmetics
PPG-3 Myristyl Ether
Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI)
Pure-Bakuchiol™ (Natural Retinol, 99% Pure, USA)

Tags

Emulsifier Mixing Procedure Serum Solubility Solvents