Basic Formulation Guide for Beginner R&D: Gels, Creams, and Essences

For a beginner R&D starting with skincare formulations like gels, creams, and essences (Nam-tob), the best approach is to start with Cold Process formulations. This method does not require heating, making it easier to control and less prone to errors.

1. Basic Structure of a Formula

Every skincare formula generally consists of:

• Water Phase: Purified water and water-soluble ingredients (Glycerin, Panthenol).
• Oil Phase: Emollients or natural oils (for creams and lotions).
• Emulsifier / Thickener: The "glue" that holds water and oil together or creates the texture.
• Active Ingredients: Ingredients that provide specific benefits (Whitening, Anti-aging).
• Preservative: Essential to prevent microbial growth.

2. Starting with Gels

A gel is primarily water thickened with a polymer.

• Recommended Ingredient: Pro Polymer™ or Sepimax Zen.
• How to start: Sprinkle the polymer into water and stir until a clear gel forms. Sepimax Zen is excellent if you plan to add acidic actives or electrolytes (like Vitamin C or certain extracts).

3. Starting with Creams (Cold Process)

Traditional creams require heating wax and oil, but beginners should start with "Easy Cream Makers."

• Recommended Ingredient: Satin Cream Maker™ or Easy Cream Maker™.
• How to start: Mix water and oil together, then add the cream maker and stir/whip. The mixture will turn into a cream instantly without heat. Satin Cream Maker™ provides a premium, silky skin feel.

4. Starting with "Nam-tob" (Essence/Serum)

These are lightweight, water-based products.

• Recommended Ingredient: Silky Serum Base or SepGEL 305.
• How to start: Use a very low percentage of a thickener to create a "watery" texture that still feels substantial. Silky Serum Base is designed to create a professional serum texture easily.

5. Essential Tips for Beginner R&Ds

1. Measure by Weight: Always use a digital scale (0.01g or 0.1g precision). Never measure by drops or volume (ml).
2. Keep a Lab Notebook: Record every version (V1, V2, V3) and note the changes in texture, scent, and skin feel.
3. Check pH: Most skincare should have a pH between 5.0–6.0. Use pH strips or a meter.
4. Stability Test: Leave your sample at room temperature and in a slightly warmer area (like near a window) for 2-4 weeks to see if it separates or changes color.

For a beginner, I recommend starting with Satin Cream Maker™ for creams and Pro Polymer™ for gels, as they are very forgiving and produce professional results.