Beginner Cosmetic Formulation Questions: Ingredient Addition and Water/Oil Ratio in Cream/Gel

Asked by: fahreddavil On: November 03, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have some questions about cosmetic formulation for beginners:

1. Some ingredients I've chosen are listed as needing to be added last in a cream or gel. I understand this generally, but when exactly should they be added if there are multiple such ingredients?
2. When making a cream that involves water and oil phases, then adding an emulsifier to turn it into a cream, what should be the ratio of water to oil? Which phase should be in a larger proportion?

Answer

Subject: Beginner in Cosmetic Formulation

Hello! It's great that you're starting to explore cosmetic formulation. It's completely normal to have questions when you're new to it. Let's address your points based on the information provided:

1. Adding Ingredients Last

  • Ingredients that say "add last" are typically those that are sensitive to heat.
  • If your formulation process involves heating (e.g., to melt ingredients or emulsify with a heat-requiring emulsifier), you add these heat-sensitive ingredients after the heating step, when the mixture has cooled down.
  • If your formula does not involve heating, you can often add these ingredients to their respective phases (water-soluble to water phase, oil-soluble to oil phase, etc.) from the beginning.
  • If you have multiple ingredients to add at the final stage, you can add them one after another, mixing well after each addition.

2. Water and Oil Ratio in Cream

  • There is no single fixed ratio of water to oil for making cream.
  • The ratio depends on:
    • The desired texture and feel: More oil generally results in a richer, heavier, and potentially greasier cream (suitable for dry skin), while less oil makes it lighter.
    • The type of emulsifier used: Each emulsifier has a limit on how much oil it can effectively bind with water to form a stable emulsion. Using more oil than the emulsifier can handle will cause separation.
  • You need to check the recommended oil load capacity for the specific emulsifier you plan to use.

3. Self-Formulation and Ingredient Quantities

  • While you can choose ingredients based on their properties, simply mixing them based on individual recommended percentages is generally not how formulation works, especially for beginners.
  • Formulation involves understanding how different ingredients interact, how to create stable emulsions (mixing water and oil), preservation, pH adjustment, and ensuring overall compatibility.
  • It is highly recommended to start by studying basic formulation principles (like the guide mentioned by the staff) or using tested formulas.
  • If you want to create your own formula, it's best to propose it and get it reviewed by someone experienced (like the staff suggested) before you buy ingredients and start mixing. This helps ensure the formula will be stable, effective, and safe.

Starting with simple, tested formulas is a great way to learn the basics before attempting to create your own from scratch. Good luck with your formulating journey!

Tags

Cream Emulsifier Gel Ingredient Ratio Mixing Procedure