Analysis of Your Formulations and Results

Based on your experience and the staff's feedback, here's an analysis of your BHA toner and moisturizing gel formulations:

First BHA Toner Formulation

Your initial BHA toner formulation resulted in white crystalline sediment overnight. As the staff mentioned, this is likely precipitated Salicylic Acid. This indicates that the Salicylic Acid was not fully stable or soluble in your toner base at room temperature. While the peeling effect on the skin suggests the BHA was still active, the instability of the product is a concern.

The peeling and dryness observed on the skin of the users (except yourself, likely due to applying Cerave PM afterwards) are significant. The staff correctly points out that when the skin is peeling and compromised, it cannot effectively absorb active ingredients like BHA. This hinders the treatment's effectiveness, potentially leading to continued breakouts despite using BHA.

Continued Acne Breakouts and "Purging"

It is common to experience an initial worsening of acne, sometimes called "purging," when starting BHA or other exfoliants. This happens as the product speeds up cell turnover and brings underlying clogs to the surface. The theory that acne might worsen in the first few weeks before improving is plausible for some individuals.

However, the staff emphasizes that the primary goal of BHA is to reduce clogged pores. If new clogged pores are still forming, or if the inflammation is severe and persistent, it suggests that either the BHA concentration isn't optimal for preventing new clogs, or the skin's condition (due to irritation/peeling) is preventing effective absorption. The staff advises focusing on the reduction of clogged pores as the key indicator of success and managing inflammation separately if needed.

Second Moisturizing Gel Formulation

Your second formulation aimed to provide hydration and soothing ingredients. The staff's feedback on this formula is valuable. They recommend removing Hyaluronic Acid Nano and incorporating ingredients like Pure MSM™ and Zinc PCA to help balance oil production, and increasing the concentration of Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3) to 5% to strengthen the skin barrier. They also suggest using Pro Polymer™ as the gelling agent at a higher percentage (1.0-2.0%) for better texture and stability, especially considering the presence of electrolytes from ingredients like Zinc PCA.

Adding Xanthangum after the fact, as you did, can function as a thickener. However, the staff specifically recommended Pro Polymer™ for this type of formulation, likely because of its compatibility with electrolytes and its ability to create a stable gel texture for active ingredients. While adding Xanthangum might increase viscosity, it may not provide the same level of stability or desired texture as using Pro Polymer™ correctly from the start at the appropriate concentration.

Recommendations

Based on the staff's expert advice, here are the key recommendations:

1. BHA Formulation: To address the instability and precipitation issues with the BHA, follow the staff's suggestion to formulate the BHA product as a gel or cream using a suitable gelling agent like Pro Polymer™. This helps to stabilize the Salicylic Acid and prevent it from settling out. The staff provided a suggested BHA gel formula focusing primarily on the BHA and necessary solvents/stabilizers.
2. Moisturizing Gel Formulation: Adopt the staff's revised moisturizing gel formula. This formula focuses on water-soluble ingredients that support skin health, reduce oiliness, and soothe irritation without adding oils that might exacerbate acne. Ensure you use Pro Polymer™ at the recommended concentration (1.0-2.0%) and follow the mixing instructions carefully, especially regarding electrolytes.
3. Balancing Treatment and Hydration: The most crucial aspect highlighted by the staff is the balance between using BHA and maintaining a healthy, hydrated skin barrier.
   • Adjust the BHA application (frequency, contact time) to find the lowest level that effectively controls new clogged pores without causing excessive peeling or irritation.
   • Use the recommended oil-free moisturizing gel generously, especially at night, to keep the skin hydrated and strong. Avoid oil-based products like Cerave PM while actively treating acne with BHA, as suggested by the staff.
4. Monitor Skin Response: Continuously monitor the skin's response. Focus on whether new clogged pores are decreasing. Manage inflamed breakouts as needed (though I cannot provide medical advice on this). If peeling or irritation occurs, reduce the frequency or contact time of the BHA application and increase hydration until the skin recovers.

By stabilizing the BHA formulation and providing adequate, appropriate hydration with the revised gel formula, you can help the skin tolerate the treatment better and improve the chances of successfully controlling acne.