Body Cream Formulation for Dry, Sun-Darkened Skin: Whitening and Intense Moisturization

ถามโดย: hassaya.k เมื่อ: June 22, 2015 ประเภทผลิตภัณฑ์: เครื่องสำอาง

คำถาม

I am developing a body cream formulation for dry skin that is slightly darkened from the sun. My goal is to achieve both whitening and intense moisturization without a heavy, greasy feel.

Here is my proposed formula:

  • Water Phase:
    • Water
    • Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) 3%
    • NAG (N-Acetyl Glucosamine) 2%
    • Hyaluronic Acid (Nano Molecule) 1%
    • Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) 1%
    • MSH White™ (Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine) 2%
  • Oil Phase:
    • Lipid Soft Lite (Hydrogenated Polyisobutene) 5%
    • Satin Mousse (Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica) 2%
    • Preservative
    • Fragrance

I have the following questions:

  1. Is this formula suitable and effective for my goals?
  2. Regarding the Hyaluronic Acid (Standard Molecule) powder, I understand it can be difficult to mix. If I were to remove it, would the formula still be effective for intense moisturization? What is the correct mixing order, especially for adding Satin Mousse?
  3. Can I add Water-Capsule at 3% to this formula to enhance moisturization? What kind of texture would adding Water-Capsule create, and would it still feel non-greasy?

คำตอบ

Okay, I understand you're looking for advice on a body cream formulation for dry, slightly sun-darkened skin, aiming for both whitening and intense moisturization without a heavy, greasy feel. You've provided your proposed formula and asked specific questions, and the staff has also provided feedback.

Based on your questions and the staff's reply:

  1. Is the formula okay?
    The staff's feedback suggests that while your formula contains good ingredients for whitening (Vitamin B3, NAG, MSH) and some moisturization (HA, Lipid Soft Lite), it might not be sufficient for very dry skin. They recommend adding more intense moisturizing ingredients.

  2. Advice on including standard molecule HA and mixing order:
    The staff specifically addressed the difficulty of mixing Hyaluronic Acid (HA) powder, especially the standard molecule, for beginners, noting it can affect viscosity and be hard to dissolve. They strongly recommend replacing both HA (Nano Molecule) and HA (Standard Molecule) with Double Hyaluron Liquid (ID 404), which is much easier to incorporate into formulations.
    Regarding the mixing order if you were to use Satin Mousse (ID 247) without standard HA powder, the staff's revised formula (using Water-Capsule) shows Satin Mousse being added early in the water phase, not as the last ingredient.

  3. Adding Water-Capsule and texture:
    Yes, you can add Water-Capsule (ID 666) to your formula. The staff's revised formula includes Water-Capsule at 4% (slightly higher than your suggested 3%) to create a water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. Water-in-oil creams are excellent for very dry skin because they form a protective barrier on the skin surface, which helps prevent water loss more effectively and provides longer-lasting hydration and some water resistance compared to typical oil-in-water (O/W) creams.
    However, it's important to note that water-in-oil creams generally have a richer, more occlusive feel than oil-in-water creams. While they are highly moisturizing and protective, they might feel different from the lightweight, non-greasy texture you prefer. The staff's suggested method for mixing the W/O cream involves adding the oil phase (containing Water-Capsule) all at once into the water phase while continuously stirring, which is a specific technique for forming this type of emulsion.

Staff's Recommendations for Enhanced Moisturization:
To address your very dry skin, the staff recommended adding the following moisturizing ingredients to your formula:

  • MOIST72 (ID 257) at 2%
  • WaterLock (ID 258) at 2%
  • Panthenol (Vitamin B5) ExtraLite™ (ID 405) at 5%

Summary of Staff's Revised Formula Approach (using Water-Capsule):
The staff provided a revised structure for a water-in-oil cream using Water-Capsule, incorporating the recommended additional moisturizers and the easier-to-use Double Hyaluron Liquid. This approach prioritizes intense moisturization and skin barrier protection, which is highly beneficial for very dry skin, although the texture will be different from a lightweight O/W cream.

In conclusion, your original formula is a good starting point, but the staff's suggestions offer ways to improve its effectiveness for very dry skin and simplify the mixing process (by using Double Hyaluron Liquid). Choosing the Water-Capsule approach will give you a highly moisturizing, protective cream with some water resistance, but be prepared for a richer texture than a standard non-greasy lotion.

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