Body Cream Formulation Issue

Asked by: annsakul On: April 25, 2021 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am experimenting with making a body massage cream with the following formula:
Part A:
1. Water 54.3%
2. Allantoin 0.2%
3. Glycerin 2%
Part B:
1. Light Cream Maker 2%
2. Fractionated Coconut Oil 10%
Part C:
1. Methyl Salicylate 15%
2. Menthol 5%
3. Eucalyptus Oil 10%
Part D:
Mild Preserved Eco 1%

When mixing Part A and Part B, the texture is a normal cream. However, upon adding Part C, the cream immediately turns liquid. After letting it sit for a while, the cream separates into lumps.

Could you please review the formula and advise which cream maker (emulsifier) should be used so that the mixture remains a cream texture without separating? Or what other ingredient should be added? It would be very convenient if the mixing process does not require heat (cold process). Thank you.

Answer

Body Cream Formulation Issue

The cream separates after adding Part C (Methyl Salicylate, Menthol, and Eucalyptus Oil) because the total oil phase (40%) exceeds the capacity of Light Cream Maker, which is designed for up to 20% oil. The active ingredients in Part C also contribute to emulsion instability at high concentrations.

Light Cream Maker is designed to emulsify oil phases up to 20% in a cold process. When you add Part C, the total oil content far exceeds this limit, and the active nature of Methyl Salicylate and Menthol can further destabilize the emulsion, causing it to break and separate.

To create a stable cream with this high percentage of oil phase and active ingredients without using heat, you would need a more robust emulsifier system specifically designed to handle high oil loads and challenging ingredients.

Finding a single emulsifier that can handle a 40% oil phase containing significant amounts of Methyl Salicylate and Menthol in a cold process can be challenging. You might need to explore emulsifiers or combinations of emulsifiers that offer higher stability and oil tolerance.

Alternatively, reducing the concentration of the oil phase ingredients in Part C could help stabilize the current formulation with Light Cream Maker, but this might affect the desired efficacy of the product.

Here is a summary of the issue and potential approaches:

Suggested Solutions

  1. Use a Stronger Emulsifier: Replace Light Cream Maker with an emulsifier or a combination of emulsifiers capable of handling a high oil load (around 40%) and compatible with challenging active ingredients like Methyl Salicylate and Menthol in a cold process. Research emulsifiers known for their robustness in high oil systems.
  2. Adjust Ingredient Concentrations: If maintaining a cold process is essential and a suitable emulsifier cannot be found, consider reducing the percentage of the oil phase ingredients in Part C to bring the total oil content within the range that Light Cream Maker or other available cold-process emulsifiers can handle.

Achieving a stable, non-separating cream with a 40% oil phase containing these specific actives without heat requires careful selection of the emulsifier system.

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