Body Serum Formulation with Actives and SPF

You are looking to create a body serum (500ml) containing Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide), Ferulic Acid, MSH White Absorb, Active Resveratrol, Ethoxydiglycol, Propylene Glycol, Laureth-23, and SPF Protect Plus at SPF 50.

Here are recommendations for incorporating these ingredients into a body serum-lotion formulation, considering their properties and recommended usage rates:

• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine): Recommended usage is 3-15%. For significant whitening, use 10-15%. Note that L-ascorbic acid requires a low pH (2.0-4.0) for stability, which can be challenging to formulate with other ingredients.
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): Recommended usage is 1-10%. A concentration of 5-10% is effective for reducing wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and oiliness, while also strengthening the skin barrier.
• Ferulic Acid: Pure-Ferulic Acid™ is recommended at 0.5-1%. It requires dissolution in solvents like Ethoxydiglycol or ethanol. Alternatively, Micromul™ Ferulic Acid (recommended at 2-3%) is water-soluble and easier to incorporate into a serum/lotion base.
• MSH White™: Recommended usage is 0.5-2%. It needs to be dissolved in oil or alcohol at temperatures above 60°C or in a high pH (>8) solution. This requires careful formulation steps.
• Active Resveratrol: Pure Trans-Resveratrol (Powder) is recommended at 0.5-3%. It dissolves in ethanol and other organic solvents but not water. Micromul™ Resveratrol (recommended at 0.5-5%) is a water-soluble microemulsion that is much easier to use in a serum/lotion.
• Ethoxydiglycol: Recommended usage is 1-10%. It acts as a solvent and carrier. Note the current FDA limit is not more than 2.6% for leave-on products.
• Propylene Glycol: Recommended usage is 1-20%. It functions as a humectant and solvent.
• Laureth-23: Recommended usage is 1-5%. This is an emulsifier that melts above 60°C and is mixed in the oil phase. Its inclusion suggests that an emulsion (lotion or serum-lotion) is the appropriate product form to combine the water and oil-soluble components.
• SPF Protect Plus™: Recommended usage is 1-20%. To calculate SPF, 1% of SPF Protect Plus™ provides approximately SPF 1.1. To achieve SPF 50, you would theoretically need around 45.45%, but the maximum recommended usage rate is 20%. Therefore, achieving SPF 50 with SPF Protect Plus™ alone within the recommended usage limit is not possible. Using 20% would provide approximately SPF 22. If SPF 50 is a strict requirement, you may need to consider alternative or additional sunscreen agents compatible with the formulation base and regulations.

Formulation Considerations:

Given the mix of water-soluble and oil-soluble ingredients, and the inclusion of an emulsifier (Laureth-23) and a sunscreen (SPF Protect Plus™ is oil-soluble), a serum-lotion or light lotion emulsion base would be more suitable than a simple serum.

To simplify the formulation process, consider using the Micromul™ versions of Ferulic Acid and Resveratrol as they are water-soluble.

Recommended Percentage Ranges (as part of the total 500ml formulation):

• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) (Ultra-Fine): 10-15%
• Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide): 5-10%
• Micromul™ Ferulic Acid: 2-3%
• MSH White™: 0.5-2%
• Micromul™ Resveratrol: 0.5-5%
• Ethoxydiglycol: Up to 2.6% (adhering to FDA limit for leave-on)
• Propylene Glycol: 5-10%
• Laureth-23: 3-5%
• SPF Protect Plus™: Up to 20% (Note: This yields approximately SPF 22)

The remaining percentage would consist of the base formulation components such as water, other emollients, thickeners, preservatives, and pH adjusters to reach a total of 100% (500ml). The low pH required for L-Ascorbic Acid stability will need careful management in the overall formulation.

Summary of Adjustments/Additions:

• Consider using Micromul™ Ferulic Acid and Micromul™ Resveratrol for easier formulation.
• Be aware that SPF Protect Plus™ at its maximum recommended usage rate (20%) will not achieve SPF 50. You may need to accept a lower SPF or explore other sunscreen options.
• The formulation will likely require an emulsion base due to the ingredients.
• Carefully manage the pH for L-Ascorbic Acid stability.

This provides a framework for your body serum-lotion. Developing a complete, stable, and effective formula requires careful consideration of ingredient compatibility, mixing procedures, and stability testing.