Body Spray Formulation: Oil and Water Separation Issue

Asked by: k.anchaleeporn81 On: July 05, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I want to make a body spray, but the water and oil phases are separating.

I used a test batch with the following ingredients and quantities:

  • Rose Hydrosol: 20 cc
  • Rose Hip Oil: 1 cc
  • Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20): 1 cc

When mixed, the ingredients did not combine and separated into layers after a while.

I need advice on how to make them combine.

  • Should I use heat?
  • What other steps should I take?

Answer

Okay, I understand the problem. You are trying to make a body spray with Rose Hydrosol and Rose Hip Oil, but the ingredients are separating. You used a test batch with Rose Hydrosol (20cc), Rose Hip Oil (1cc), and Tween 20 (1cc), but it separated. You are asking for advice on how to make them combine, specifically if heating is necessary or what else to do.

This is a common issue because oil and water do not mix naturally. You need a substance to help them combine, which is the role of Polysorbate 20 (Tween 20) that you are using.

The problem is likely due to the ratio of Polysorbate 20 used to solubilize the Rose Hip Oil. Rose Hip Oil is a carrier oil, and it typically requires a higher ratio of Polysorbate 20 compared to fragrance oils or essential oils. A 1:1 ratio (oil : Polysorbate 20) might not be sufficient to fully solubilize 1cc of Rose Hip Oil in 20cc of water.

Recommendations to fix the issue:

  1. Increase the ratio of Polysorbate 20: Try increasing the amount of Polysorbate 20 relative to the Rose Hip Oil. You can start with a Polysorbate 20 : Rose Hip Oil ratio of 2:1 or 3:1 (e.g., for 1cc of Rose Hip Oil, use 2-3 cc of Polysorbate 20) and adjust as needed until you get a clear, non-separating mixture.
  2. Correct Mixing Method:
    • Mix the Rose Hip Oil and Polysorbate 20 together first in an empty container. Stir well until they are completely combined and clear (this step is crucial).
    • Gradually add the Rose Hydrosol little by little while continuously stirring or mixing the ingredients until all the Rose Hydrosol is added.
  3. Heating: Generally, making a spray with a small amount of oil using Polysorbate 20 as a solubilizer does not require heating. Heating might even degrade some of the ingredients.
  4. Shake Before Use: Even with proper solubilization, if the final formula contains a relatively high percentage of oil, you might still need to shake the bottle slightly before each use to ensure the ingredients are well combined.

Try adjusting the Polysorbate 20 ratio and the mixing method based on these recommendations. This should help resolve the separation issue.

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