Breakout after using homemade serum for oily, acne-prone skin
Question
I made a 50ml serum formulation for a 17-year-old female with oily skin, acne, and acne scars. The goal is to reduce oiliness, inflammatory acne, and acne scars, and strengthen the skin.
However, after using the product, she experienced a breakout with increased inflammatory acne.
Could you please analyze the following formulation and identify which ingredient might be causing the breakout?
Formulation (50ml):
Water Phase:
- B3 2g
- Gluco Bright 2g
- Licorice Extract (Licochalcone A 1%) 0.5g
- Rhamnose 1.5g
- Phospholipid 1.5g
- L-Carnitine 1g
- L-Carnosine 0.2g
- Rice Vitamin 1g
- 1,2 Hexanediol 1.5g
- Remaining Water
Oil Phase:
- Sugarcane Extract 2g
- Rose Hip Oil 3g
- Butter Cream Maker 1g
Final Phase:
- beta glucan 2.5g
- Copper Peptide 1.5g
- Pure EGCG 0.5g
- Fruit Peel 1.5g
- Yease Radiance 1.5g
Answer
Analysis of the Formulation and Potential Causes of Breakout
Thank you for providing your formulation. It contains several beneficial ingredients for oily and acne-prone skin, aiming to reduce oiliness, inflammation, acne, and improve skin health and scars.
The experience of acne flaring up after starting a new product can be due to several factors, including a 'purging' effect from exfoliating ingredients or irritation from certain components or high concentrations of actives.
Based on the ingredients and their concentrations in your 50ml formula, here are the potential culprits for the breakout:
Fruit Peel (3%): This ingredient is an exfoliant. Exfoliating products can sometimes cause an initial worsening of acne (purging) as they speed up skin cell turnover and bring underlying congestion to the surface. This is a common, temporary reaction.
Rose Hip Oil (6%) and Butter Cream Maker (2%): While Rose Hip Oil is generally considered non-comedogenic, the total oil phase (8%) combined with the emulsifier might be too rich or heavy for someone with very oily and acne-prone skin. This can potentially clog pores and lead to breakouts.
High Concentration of Active Ingredients: Your formula contains a significant number of active ingredients at notable concentrations. While many are individually beneficial for acne, the combined effect of so many actives in one formula might be overwhelming or irritating for sensitive, acne-prone skin, triggering an inflammatory response that manifests as acne.
Copper Peptide (3%): Although beneficial for skin repair and scars, introducing new potent active ingredients like Copper Peptide can sometimes cause an initial adjustment period or purging in some individuals.
Recommendations:
Consider the Purging Effect: If the breakout occurred shortly after starting the product and consists of typical acne lesions in areas where you normally break out, it might be a purging effect from the Fruit Peel. This usually subsides within a few weeks. If it's new types of breakouts or in unusual areas, it's more likely irritation or comedogenicity.
Reduce the Oil Phase: For oily skin, an 8% oil phase might be too much. You could try reducing the amount of Rose Hip Oil or Butter Cream Maker, or potentially replacing some of the oil phase with lighter esters if suitable for the formulation type.
Simplify the Formula: For acne-prone skin, sometimes less is more. Consider reducing the number of active ingredients used simultaneously. You could try removing one or two of the less critical actives to see if the skin reacts better.
Adjust Concentration: While the individual concentrations are mostly within recommended ranges, the cumulative effect might be too strong. You could try reducing the concentration of Fruit Peel or Copper Peptide slightly.
Check pH: Ensure the final pH of your formulation is within the optimal range for the ingredients, especially Copper Peptide (pH 4.5-7.4) and Fruit Peel (pH 3.5-7.0). An incorrect pH can affect ingredient stability and potentially cause irritation.
It is recommended to observe the skin's reaction closely. If the breakout persists or worsens significantly, discontinue use. You may need to experiment with adjusting the formula by removing or reducing one ingredient at a time to identify the specific cause.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
GlucoBright™ (Acetyl Glucosamine)
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
Rice Vitamin (Inositol, Vitamin B8)
Rhamnose (rhamnose sugar)
Butter Cream Maker™
Yeast Radiance™
FruitPeel™ exfoliates cells with fruit
L-Carnosine
Pure-EGCG™ (Green Tea Extract, 98% EGCG)