Calculating Sunscreen Active Percentages and INCI Listing Rules

Asked by: leelavalin On: July 11, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I have questions regarding the use of SPF Protect™ and ingredient labeling:

  1. When using SPF Protect™ at 20% in a base, will the resulting concentrations of Avobenzone, Octisalate, and Octocrylene be as follows?
    • Avobenzone = 6.25%
    • Octisalate = 6.25%
    • Octocrylene = 12.5%

      Is my calculation correct?
  2. When listing these active ingredients on the product label under "Drug facts Active ingredients", should the exact percentages with decimal points be used, like "Avobenzone 6.25 % purpose Sunscreen"?
  3. For long INCI Names of complex ingredients, such as Matrixyl 3000 which has the INCI name Glycerin (and) Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Carbomer (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, when listing in the Ingredients section, should I only list the main peptides like Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7? Or must the full INCI name components be listed?

Answer

Based on your questions and the staff's reply:

  1. Composition when using 20% SPF Protect™: Your calculation is correct. When using SPF Protect™ at 20% in a base, the resulting concentrations are Avobenzone 6.25%, Octisalate 6.25%, and Octocrylene 12.5%.

  2. Labeling (Drug facts Active ingredients): Correct. When listing on the product label under "Drug facts Active ingredients", you should list the calculated percentages with decimal points as they are, for example, "Avobenzone 6.25 % purpose Sunscreen".

  3. INCI Name Listing: For complex INCI names like Matrixyl 3000 (Glycerin (and) Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Carbomer (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Palmitoyl Oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7), you must list all components included in that INCI name, not just the main active ingredients. For example, you need to list Glycerin, Water, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, and Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7. However, if a component (like Water) is already present and listed elsewhere in the overall formula's ingredient list, it only needs to be listed once in the total ingredient list.

Tags

Active Ingredient Amount Calculation INCI Name Ingredient Declaration Sunscreen Formulation