CC Cream SPF 50+ PA++++ Formula for Oily Skin

Here is a sample formula and detailed instructions for making a CC Cream SPF 50+ PA++++ suitable for oily skin, based on modifying a sunscreen base. This formula incorporates coverage powders and uses light emollients.

Sample Formula

• Phase A (Water Phase)

  • Water: 56.5%
  • Water-soluble actives (e.g., Niacinamide, Vitamin C derivative): 3%
  • Preservative (e.g., Mild Preserved Eco): 1%

• Phase B (Oil Phase)

  • LipidSoft™ Lite (or LipidSoft™ Matte for more matte finish): 8%
  • DHHB: 8%
  • BEMT: 3%
  • Light Cream Maker™: 1.5%

• Phase C (Powder Phase)

  • Mica Powder (Silane Coated, e.g., 9 Micron): 10%
  • BB Micro Silk™: 5%
  • Color Pigments (e.g., Iron Oxides - Yellow, Red, Black, White): 4%

Detailed Mixing Instructions

1. Prepare Phase A: Combine water, water-soluble actives, and preservative in a container. Stir until all ingredients are fully dissolved.
2. Prepare Phase B: In a separate container, combine LipidSoft™ Lite (or Matte), DHHB, BEMT, and Light Cream Maker™. Heat this phase to approximately 80°C while stirring until DHHB and BEMT are completely dissolved. Allow the mixture to cool slightly.
3. Combine A and B: Slowly add Phase B to Phase A while stirring continuously with a high-speed mixer. Continue mixing until a smooth cream is formed (this usually takes 1-5 minutes). Avoid mixing at speeds higher than 2500 rpm to maintain the cream's texture.
4. Prepare and Add Phase C: In a separate container, thoroughly mix the Mica Powder, BB Micro Silk™, and color pigments. Gradually add this powder mixture to the finished cream base (from step 3). Mix thoroughly until the powders are evenly dispersed and the color is uniform throughout the cream.
5. Final Adjustments: If you have any heat-sensitive active ingredients or fragrance, add them now and mix well. Check the pH of the final product and adjust if necessary.

Incorporating Different Ingredients

• LipidSoft and Nourishing Oils: LipidSoft and other nourishing oils are part of the Oil Phase (Phase B). Mix them together with the emulsifier and sunscreen filters before combining with the water phase. For dry skin, you can increase the total percentage of the oil phase and use richer emollients like LipidSoft™ Moist or natural oils, reducing the water percentage accordingly.
• Powders (Color, Micro, etc.): Powders can be added either into the oil phase before emulsification or dispersed into the finished cream after it has formed. Dispersing into the finished cream (as shown in step 4 above) is often easier for ensuring even distribution and adjusting color.
• Liquid or Powder Actives: Add these ingredients to the phase they are soluble in. Water-soluble actives go into the Water Phase (Phase A). Oil-soluble actives go into the Oil Phase (Phase B). If an active is sensitive to heat, add it during the final adjustments phase (Phase D) after the cream has cooled.

This formula provides broad-spectrum protection with SPF 50+ and PA++++ due to the inclusion of DHHB and BEMT, while the powders help provide the coverage characteristic of a CC Cream and a smoother feel suitable for oily skin.