CC Cream Sunscreen Formulation: Texture, Coverage & SPF Advice

Question

I am formulating a CC cream sunscreen and need advice on ingredients and achieving specific properties. My goal is a product with high coverage, a smooth, soft, non-greasy, and waterproof texture, and SPF50 PA++++ for strong sun exposure.

I have questions regarding the following ingredients and aspects:

Emulsifier: I am considering using either Water Capsule or Water-in-Oil EZ. Which is more suitable for a waterproof and long-lasting CC cream sunscreen? Will the mixing process and final texture differ significantly between the two?
Emollient: I plan to substitute LipidSoft Dry with LipidSoft CC. Is this a good choice for achieving a light, non-greasy, smooth, and easily spreadable texture?
Oil Absorption: I want to add Matte Silica to control oiliness and provide a matte finish. What is a recommended starting percentage, and how should it be incorporated into the formula?
Sunscreen Actives: I intend to use Titanium Dioxide Nano, Zinc Oxide 200nm, and SPF Protect Ultra. Are these suitable for achieving SPF50 PA++++ and broad-spectrum protection?
Coverage and Texture: I plan to include BB Micro Silk for blurring and Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix for color and adherence. Are these appropriate for the desired coverage and smooth finish?

Overall, I need advice on whether these ingredient choices are appropriate and how to best combine them to achieve a high-coverage, smooth, soft, non-greasy, waterproof CC cream sunscreen with SPF50 PA++++.

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

CC Cream Sunscreen Formulation Advice

Based on your goal to create a CC cream sunscreen with high coverage, a smooth, soft, non-greasy, waterproof texture, and SPF50 PA++++ for strong sun exposure, the ingredients you have selected are suitable for this type of formulation.

Here is a breakdown of your proposed ingredients and substitutions:

Emulsifier: You asked about changing Water Capsule to Water-in-Oil EZ. Both are water-in-oil emulsifiers suitable for creating waterproof and long-lasting formulas like CC creams and sunscreens. Water-in-Oil EZ is particularly good if your formula contains electrolytes or a higher percentage of oil/silicone (up to 35%). The staff noted that the mixing process and final texture will differ between the two. Water-in-Oil EZ requires adding the water phase gradually to the oil phase while stirring. You can experiment with both to see which texture you prefer, but Water-in-Oil EZ offers more flexibility.
Emollient: Substituting LipidSoft Dry with LipidSoft CC is a good choice. LipidSoft CC is a light, non-greasy emollient that provides a soft, smooth feel and helps the formula spread easily, which aligns with your desired texture for a CC cream.
Oil Absorption: Adding Matte Silica is excellent for controlling oiliness and providing a matte finish. The staff recommended starting with 3%. You can add it to the water phase of your formulation. Be mindful that using too high a percentage might affect the overall texture.
Sunscreen Actives: Your inclusion of Titanium Dioxide Nano, Zinc Oxide 200nm, and SPF Protect Ultra is appropriate for achieving high SPF and broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection required for strong sun exposure. Using both Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide provides comprehensive physical UV filtering, while SPF Protect Ultra adds chemical protection. Achieving SPF50 PA++++ will depend on the total concentration and specific combination of these actives, which usually requires significant percentages and formula optimization.
Coverage and Texture: BB Micro Silk is beneficial for blurring the appearance of wrinkles and pores, contributing to a smooth finish. Beige Iron Oxides EasyMix provides the necessary color pigment for the CC cream and is treated for easy dispersion and good adherence.
Other Ingredients: Water and a suitable Preservative are essential components for the stability and safety of the formulation.

To achieve the desired properties, especially the smooth, soft, non-greasy feel and good coverage, the combination of LipidSoft CC, BB Micro Silk, and Matte Silica is well-suited. The waterproof and long-lasting nature will be primarily provided by the water-in-oil emulsifier (Water-in-Oil EZ or Water Capsule) and the physical sunscreen filters.

Remember that the exact percentages of each ingredient, particularly the sunscreen actives, will need careful adjustment and testing to reach SPF50 PA++++ and achieve your ideal texture and coverage.