Challenges in Lotion/Cream Formulation with High Liquid Active Content

Hello, thank you for your question and the formula you provided.

Based on your formula, method, and the advice from MySkinRecipes staff, here is some additional guidance:

Method:
The method of preparing the water and oil phases separately and then combining them is a standard approach for making lotions or creams. Adding the preservative (Phenoxyethanol) at the end after combining the water and oil phases is also correct according to general principles.

Ingredients and Considerations:

1. Actives 1, 2, 3 (Total 60%): You mentioned these are liquid extracts, which partially addresses the staff's initial question. However, the crucial points raised by the staff are what solvent base these extracts use (e.g., extracted in water, Propylene Glycol, Alcohol, or others) and whether they are electrolytes.

   • Solvent Base: This affects compatibility with other ingredients in the water phase and can impact emulsion stability.
   • Electrolytes: Some ingredients that are electrolytes, especially at high concentrations, can disrupt the stability of certain emulsifier types. You need to check if the Light Cream Maker you are using is compatible with these actives if they are electrolytes.
   • High Percentage (60%): Using actives at such a high percentage (60%) is very high for a typical lotion formula. This can significantly affect the texture (viscosity, skin feel) and stability of the formula.

2. Water (33%): The total water content in the formula is not just 33%. It will also include the amount of water (or other primary solvent) that comes from the three liquid active ingredients.

3. Allantoin (0.5%): As the staff mentioned, Allantoin has limited solubility in water (around 0.5-0.6% at room temperature). If the total water content in the water phase (33% added water + water content from actives) is not sufficient, Allantoin might not fully dissolve and could crystallize out. You should check the total water content in the water phase against the amount of Allantoin used. If it's not enough for full dissolution, you may need to reduce the Allantoin percentage or increase the overall water phase proportion (perhaps by reducing actives or the oil phase).

4. Shea Butter (5%) and Light Cream Maker (1%): The total oil phase is 6%, emulsified by 1% Light Cream Maker. You need to ensure that Light Cream Maker can effectively emulsify this 6% oil load and is compatible with the high percentage and nature of the water phase ingredients (especially if the actives are electrolytes).

5. Phenoxyethanol (0.5%): This is a standard usage rate for this preservative. Adding it at the final step is correct.

Summary and Recommendations:

1. Confirm Active Information: The most important step is to get clear information about the solvent base and electrolyte nature of your liquid active extracts. This is key to assessing the formula's compatibility and stability.
2. Check Allantoin Solubility: Calculate the total water content in your water phase (added water + water from actives) and verify if it's sufficient to dissolve 0.5% Allantoin. If not, adjust the Allantoin amount.
3. Consider High Active Load: Be prepared that the high percentage of actives might result in a texture different from typical lotions and may require further formula adjustments for desired stability.
4. Make a Small Test Batch: It is highly recommended to make a small test batch first to observe the resulting appearance, stability (check for separation), and texture.

Your initial formula and method are a good starting point, but the details about your specific active ingredients are crucial for evaluating the success of this formulation.