Chemical Peel Formulation and Resorcinol Comparison

Asked by: best_singnontad On: August 05, 2017 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing two formulas, one for a chemical peel and one for a post-peel neutralizer, aiming for gentle exfoliation 2-3 times per week without significant peeling. I have adapted a Jessner's solution concept.

Formula 1: Chemical Peel

  1. Lactic Acid 8%
  2. Salicylic Acid 2%
  3. Activated Resorcinol™ 2%
  4. Butylene Glycol 3%
  5. AnyGel™ 2%
  6. Satin Cream Maker™ 2%
  7. Phospholipid 2%
  8. Water to 100%

This formula is adapted from a traditional Jessner's solution which typically contains Lactic Acid 14%, Salicylic Acid 14%, and resorcinol 14%, resulting in significant peeling.

Formula 2: Neutralizer

  1. Aloe Vera Extract 3%
  2. Sodium Lactate 3%
  3. Centella Asiatica Extract 2%
  4. Hyaluronic Acid 1%
  5. Butylene Glycol 3%
  6. AnyGel™ 2%
  7. Water to 100%

My main question is: Is the resorcinol in the traditional Jessner's solution the same as Activated Resorcinol™ sold by myskinrecipes.com? Can they be used interchangeably in my formula?

Answer

Based on your inquiry about chemical peeling and neutralizers, and the feedback from the staff:

Regarding Resorcinol vs. Activated Resorcinol:

  • No, the Resorcinol found in traditional Jessner's solution is not the same as Activated Resorcinol™ (4-butylresorcinol) sold by myskinrecipes.com. They are different chemicals.
  • Simple Resorcinol is highly irritating and is not allowed in leave-on cosmetic products by regulatory bodies (like EU/THAI FDA). It's typically used in hair dyes/bleaches.
  • Activated Resorcinol (4-butylresorcinol) is used for skin whitening and is less irritating than simple Resorcinol, but can still cause irritation, especially at higher concentrations or when combined with strong acids. It is not a substitute for Resorcinol in a traditional peeling formula.

Evaluation of Your Proposed Formula 1 (Chemical Peel):

  • Your formula combines Lactic Acid (AHA), Salicylic Acid (BHA), and Activated Resorcinol.
  • The staff advises against adding other potentially irritating ingredients like Activated Resorcinol when using high concentrations of AHA/BHA for peeling.
  • Activated Resorcinol is primarily for whitening, not peeling, and using it at 2% in combination with acids might be overly irritating for your goal of gentle exfoliation.
  • The staff recommended a simpler and potentially safer peel formula using Glycolic Acid (5-10%), AnyGel (2%), Mild Preserved Eco (1%), and Water for gentle exfoliation.

Evaluation of Your Proposed Formula 2 (Neutralizer):

  • Your formula contains soothing and hydrating ingredients (Aloe Vera, Sodium Lactate, Centella Asiatica, Hyaluronic Acid, etc.).
  • This formula is not a neutralizer. It is a beneficial soothing and nourishing serum suitable for post-peel care, but it will not stop the peeling process by adjusting pH.
  • You would need to add a preservative (like Mild Preserved Eco) to this formula.
  • The staff suggested adding Vitamin B5 (2%) and Vitamin B3 (5%) to enhance its benefits as a soothing serum.

  • A proper neutralizer, as recommended by the staff, is Sodium Bicarbonate (3-5%) mixed with water, applied for 5-10 minutes and rinsed off.

Compatibility and Suitability:

  • Your proposed Formula 1 and Formula 2 are not ideally suited as a peel/neutralizer system. Formula 1 has problematic ingredient combinations for a gentle peel, and Formula 2 is not a neutralizer.
  • The staff's suggested approach (using the Glycolic Acid peel formula followed by the Sodium Bicarbonate neutralizer, and then potentially your modified Formula 2 as a soothing serum) is a more appropriate and safer system for achieving gentle exfoliation.

Important Note: DIY chemical peeling requires careful research and understanding of the process to avoid adverse effects. Always perform a patch test.