Chemical Sunscreen SPF Formulation Issues: Solubility, Emulsification, Stability, and SPF Level
คำถาม
I am developing a chemical sunscreen formulation and have some questions regarding the ingredients and process. The proposed formulation includes the following oil/silicone phase:
- Avobenzone 5%
- Octisalate 5%
- Octocrylene 10%
- Cyclomethicone 10%
- Dimethicone 10%
The total oil/silicone phase is 40%. I plan to use Satin Mousse as the emulsifier.
My questions are:
- Do chemical sunscreens like Avobenzone, Octisalate, and Octocrylene fully dissolve in silicones such as Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone?
- Can Satin Mousse effectively emulsify a formula with a 40% oil/silicone phase? Will the resulting emulsion be stable, or is there a high chance of separation?
- Which emulsifier is more suitable for a formula containing water, oil, and silicone: SiliSolve or SiliSolve Plus?
- What is the safety profile of Avobenzone, Octisalate, and Octocrylene?
- Is Warp Cream Maker currently available?
- How can I achieve SPF 50 using these chemical sunscreen filters in this type of formulation?
คำตอบ
Answer regarding Chemical Sunscreen SPF 35 PA+++ Formulation
Based on your questions and the staff's responses, here is a summary:
Solubility of chemical sunscreens in silicone: Chemical sunscreens like Avobenzone, Octisalate, and Octocrylene do not fully dissolve in silicones like Cyclomethicone and Dimethicone, but they can disperse and co-exist within the silicone phase. This dispersion allows them to function effectively in the formulation.
Emulsifying capacity of Satin Mousse and formula stability: While Satin Mousse ([Product ID: 247]) might be able to handle slightly more than its stated 10% oil/silicone capacity in some cases, your proposed formula contains a total of 40% oil/silicone phase (5% Avobenzone + 5% Octisalate + 10% Octocrylene + 10% Cyclomethicone + 10% Dimethicone). The staff indicates that 40% is likely too high for Satin Mousse to create a stable emulsion, and there is a high chance of separation. They recommend reducing the total oil/silicone phase to below 25% for better stability. For commercial production, thorough stability testing (e.g., 1 month at room temperature) is crucial.
Suitability of SiliSolve vs. SiliSolve Plus: SiliSolve ([Product ID: 408]) is designed specifically for water-in-silicone emulsions. Since your formula contains not only silicones but also other oil-soluble ingredients (the chemical sunscreens are considered part of the oil phase), SiliSolve alone is not suitable. To properly emulsify a mixture of water, oil, and silicone, you would need to use SiliSolve Plus™ ([Product ID: 680]).
Safety of the chemical sunscreens: The three chemical sunscreens you listed (Avobenzone [Product ID: 267], Octisalate [Product ID: 269], Octocrylene [Product ID: 268]) are considered to have lower safety profiles compared to physical sunscreens. However, they are widely accepted by regulatory bodies worldwide for use in cosmetic products within specified concentration limits.
Warp Cream Maker availability: I am unable to check the current stock availability of specific products like Warp Cream Maker ([Product ID: 288]). Please check the website or contact customer service directly for this information.
Concentration for SPF 50: Achieving SPF 50 with only these three chemical sunscreens in this type of formula can be challenging. This is due to regulatory limits on the maximum concentration allowed for each chemical filter and the difficulty in formulating a stable product with a very high percentage of the oil phase (which includes the sunscreens). The staff suggests that to reach a high SPF like 50, it might be necessary to incorporate physical sunscreens ([Product ID: 116]) or use a hybrid sunscreen approach ([Product ID: 118]) in addition to or instead of relying solely on high concentrations of these chemical filters.
ผลิตภัณฑ์ที่เกี่ยวข้องที่กล่าวถึง
Phenoxyethanol (Extra Pure)
Cyclopentasiloxane (Low-Odor Cyclomethicone)
Dimethicone (Medium/350, Low-Odor)
Satin Cream Maker™
Avobenzone (Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane)
Octocrylene
SiliSolve™ (PEG-10 Dimethicone, Odorless)