Choosing Colorants for Lipstick

When formulating lipstick, you can use different types of colorants to achieve various effects:

• Lake Colors: These are organic pigments that provide vibrant, strong colors (like bright reds, pinks, oranges, and yellows). They are oil-dispersible and commonly used for intense shades in lip products. Examples include D&C Red No.34 Ca Lake, ReadyMix™ FD&C Yellow No.5 Lake (Oil Based), and D&C Red No.6 Lake EasyMix™ (India).

• Iron Oxides: These are inorganic pigments that provide earthy, muted tones (red, yellow, black, brown). They are stable and often used for natural-looking shades or as base colors. They can be dispersed in oil, water, silicone, and powder. Examples include Iron Oxides Red (non-coated), Iron Oxides Red (FoundationPro™), Iron Oxides Yellow (FoundationPro™), and Iron Oxides Black (FoundationPro™).

• Mica: This is a mineral-based colorant that adds shimmer, sparkle, or a pearlescent effect. It can also contribute to color and coverage. Mica is dispersed in the formula. Examples include Mica Powder (20 Micron, Methicone Coated), Mica Powder (9 Micron, Silane Coated), Silver Super Sparkle Mica (Size D, 300 Micron), and Light Gold Pearl Mica (Size A, 30 Micron).

What does "India" mean?

The "India" designation in some product names, such as D&C Red No.6 Lake EasyMix™ (India) or FD&C Yellow No.5 Lake (India, 35% Dye), likely refers to the origin or a specific manufacturing standard/grade of that colorant. It indicates a specific type of that colorant from a particular source, which might have slight variations in properties like color strength or ease of dispersion compared to versions from other sources.

How to Choose

The best type of colorant to choose depends on the desired look and feel of your lipstick:

• For vibrant, non-earthy colors, choose Lake colors.
• For earthy, natural tones (reds, yellows, blacks, browns), choose Iron Oxides.
• For shimmer, sparkle, or a pearlescent finish, use Mica, often in combination with Lakes or Iron Oxides.
• Consider products labeled "EasyMix" or "ReadyMix" for easier dispersion without needing specialized grinding equipment.
• Coated versions of Iron Oxides or Mica can offer improved dispersion, texture, or performance properties.

When selecting, consider the color intensity you need and how easily the colorant disperses in your specific lipstick base.