Choosing LipidSoft for Sunscreen Formulation with Organic and Mineral UV Filters
Question
I would like to inquire about selecting the most suitable LipidSoft for a sunscreen formulation containing:
- Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse (2%)
- EHT (1%)
- DHHB (5%)
Which LipidSoft(s) and at what percentage should be used to achieve the following properties:
- Good solubility (for EHT and DHHB)
- Non-comedogenic
- Softness and smoothness
- Lightweight texture?
Answer
Choosing the Right LipidSoft™ for Your Sunscreen Formula
For a sunscreen formulation containing Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse, EHT, and DHHB, aiming for good solubility, non-comedogenic properties, softness, smoothness, and a lightweight feel, several LipidSoft™ options are suitable, each serving slightly different purposes:
For dissolving organic UV filters (EHT, DHHB): LipidSoft™ C1215 is a highly suitable choice. It is a polar ester known for its excellent ability to dissolve chemical sunscreen ingredients. It also contributes to the softness and smoothness of the formula.
- Recommended Usage: 1-20%. Use a sufficient amount to ensure the organic filters are fully dissolved, typically 5-15% depending on the total oil phase.
For lightweight, non-comedogenic feel and texture: LipidSoft™ Lite or LipidSoft™ Dry II are highly recommended.
- LipidSoft™ Lite provides a very light, soft, and smooth feel, similar to Cyclomethicone, and is non-comedogenic. It is excellent for creating lightweight textures in sunscreens and creams.
- LipidSoft™ Dry II also offers a lightweight and smooth feel but with a drier touch, effectively reducing stickiness often associated with high oil phases or certain ingredients. It is also non-comedogenic.
- Recommended Usage: Both LipidSoft™ Lite and LipidSoft™ Dry II can be used at high concentrations (up to 100%) to achieve the desired texture. For modifying the feel in a sunscreen, a starting point could be 10-30% or higher, depending on the overall formula composition and desired lightness.
For enhanced spreadability and lightness: LipidSoft™ Spread is another option. It is a lightweight emollient that helps the formula spread easily and can also help dissolve organic sunscreens.
- Recommended Usage: 1-15%. It can be used in combination with other LipidSofts to improve spreadability.
Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™ is a mineral filter that is dispersed, not dissolved, in the oil phase. The chosen LipidSofts will be part of this oil phase, helping to provide the desired feel and potentially aiding in the dispersion stability, although LipidSoft™ Disperse is specifically designed for pigment dispersion.
In summary:
To achieve good solubility of EHT and DHHB, use LipidSoft™ C1215. To achieve the desired lightweight, non-comedogenic, soft, and smooth feel, choose between LipidSoft™ Lite (for a general light feel) or LipidSoft™ Dry II (for a light, dry feel), or use LipidSoft™ Spread for enhanced spreadability. You can use a combination of LipidSofts to leverage their different properties.
The exact percentage for each LipidSoft will depend on the complete formula, but the recommended ranges provide a guideline for achieving the desired properties.
Related Products Mentioned
Zinc Oxide 200nm EasyDisperse™
LipidSoft™ Lite (Isononyl Isononanoate)