Choosing Vitamin C to Pair with Alpha Arbutin

Question

I experienced irritation (stinging, redness) from a Vitamin C product (The Body Shop) and want to combine Vitamin C with Alpha Arbutin. Which forms of Vitamin C are suitable to pair with Alpha Arbutin, considering compatibility, stability, and minimizing irritation? What are the recommended usage rates for the chosen Vitamin C form and Alpha Arbutin for skin brightening?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Choosing Vitamin C to Pair with Alpha Arbutin

Regarding your experience with Vitamin C from The Body Shop causing irritation, it's true that pure L-Ascorbic Acid, especially at high concentrations or low pH, can cause stinging or redness for some individuals. It's difficult to pinpoint the exact ingredient that caused your reaction without knowing the full formula, as the staff mentioned.

If you want to use Vitamin C alongside Alpha Arbutin, consider using a stable derivative of Vitamin C which is often less irritating than pure L-Ascorbic Acid.

One suitable option to pair with Alpha Arbutin is Ethyl Ascorbic Acid. This form is highly stable, water-soluble, and effective for skin brightening and anti-aging. It works well within a pH range of 3.5-6.0, which is compatible with Alpha Arbutin's optimal pH range (3.5-6.5). You can use Ethyl Ascorbic Acid at a concentration of 1-10%, with 3% being a common recommended starting point. Alpha Arbutin is typically used at 0.2-2%, with 2% recommended for whitening.

Another stable option is Ascorbyl Glucoside (AA-2G). It is also water-soluble and effective for brightening. However, its optimal stability is at a slightly higher pH (6.5-6.8), which is at the upper limit of Alpha Arbutin's optimal range. While potentially usable together, achieving optimal efficacy and stability for both might require careful pH adjustment.

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) is another stable, water-soluble Vitamin C derivative, but it works best at a pH of 7-9, which is not compatible with Alpha Arbutin.

Pure L-Ascorbic Acid is highly effective but less stable and requires a low pH (2.0-4.0), which might be too irritating given your previous experience, although this pH range does overlap with Alpha Arbutin's optimal range.

To minimize the risk of irritation when combining ingredients, it's always best to start with lower concentrations and perform a patch test on a small area of skin before applying to a larger area. Pay attention to how your skin reacts and adjust concentrations as needed.