Clarification on BHA's Function and Your Formulation

Hello,

Thank you for your questions regarding BHA and acne treatment.

1. Clarification on BHA's function: You are right to seek clarification on the distinction between BHA's ability to "dissolve clogged pores" and "exfoliate skin cells". Based on the staff's explanation, these are related but distinct mechanisms:

   • Dissolving clogged pores (Comedolytic effect): BHA is lipophilic (oil-loving), which allows it to penetrate into pores and dissolve the sebum and dead skin cells that form clogged pores (comedones). This property is inherent to BHA's chemical structure and is not strongly dependent on pH. This is why BHA can still help dissolve clogged pores even at a higher pH (like 4-6), which causes less irritation.
   • Exfoliating skin cells: BHA also helps to exfoliate the surface layers of the skin by breaking down the bonds between skin cells. This exfoliating action is pH-dependent, similar to AHAs. Lower pH (like 3-4) leads to more effective exfoliation. While exfoliation helps prevent clogged pores from forming in the first place by removing dead skin cells that could block pores, the direct dissolving of existing clogged pores is primarily due to BHA's lipophilic nature.
     So, while exfoliation contributes to preventing clogged pores, BHA's ability to dissolve existing ones is a separate, less pH-sensitive property. Formulating at a higher pH prioritizes the comedolytic effect with less irritation, sacrificing some exfoliating power.

2. Questions about your formulation (BHA, Niacinamide, Green Tea Extract):

   • 2.1 Redundancy for sebum control: Using both Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) and Green Tea Extract for sebum control is not redundant. It is common and often beneficial to use multiple ingredients that target sebum production or absorption through different mechanisms to achieve better and more comprehensive oil control. These ingredients can work synergistically.
   • 2.2 pH compatibility: Green Tea Extract is stated to be optimal at pH 4-6.5, while BHA is optimal at pH 3-4 for exfoliation. The staff confirmed that pH 4 is acceptable for Green Tea Extract. Therefore, formulating your gel at pH 4 would allow both BHA (for comedolytic effect and some exfoliation) and Green Tea Extract to function within or near their optimal ranges. However, the staff also noted that Green Tea Extract has a dark color and suggested considering alternative sebum-reducing ingredients like Zinc PCA, L-Carnitine, or AcneBee if the color is an issue, especially for a daytime product.

I hope this clarifies your questions!