Clarification on Pro-Niacin Formulation Example Issues

Asked by: korea-kon On: August 11, 2014 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I encountered issues with the Pro-Niacin formulation example provided on the website. Could you clarify the following points?

  1. What is the correct percentage of water in the formula? The current example seems incorrect.
  2. What is the correct mixing temperature and duration for dissolving Pro-Niacin (Myristyl Nicotinate)? The instruction mentioned mixing below 40°C, but the answer later stated 80°C for 10 minutes is correct.
  3. The formula feels sticky. Is this related to the Polysorbate 20 percentage? How can I reduce stickiness?
  4. Why is Xanthan Gum specifically recommended as a thickener for this formula, and how does Myristyl Nicotinate affect other thickeners like Pro Polymer or Natural Organic Thickener?

Answer

Clarifications on Pro-Niacin Formulation Example

Thank you for your questions regarding the Pro-Niacin formulation example. We understand there were some points of confusion, and the staff has already addressed and corrected the information on the website.

Formula Percentage Calculation

Regarding the percentage of water in the formula, you are correct that the initial example on the website had a discrepancy. The staff has confirmed that this was an error and has been corrected. The water percentage should indeed be the remaining amount needed to total 100% after accounting for all other ingredients in the formula.

Mixing Temperature

For dissolving Pro-Niacin (Myristyl Nicotinate), the instruction to use heat at 80°C for at least 10 minutes is correct. Myristyl Nicotinate is stable at this temperature and requires heat for proper dissolution. The mention of mixing below 40°C was an error on the website that has now been corrected.

Formula Stickiness and Thickeners

If the formula feels sticky, it could be related to the amount of Polysorbate 20. While the corrected formula uses 5% Polysorbate 20, which is a common usage rate, some individuals might still perceive stickiness depending on the overall formula and skin type. As the staff suggested, adding a small amount of a silicone like Cyclomethicone can help improve the texture and reduce stickiness, providing a smoother feel on the skin.

Regarding the choice of thickener, while thickeners like Pro Polymer or Natural Organic Thickener can create viscosity, Xanthan Gum is specifically recommended for this formula. This is because Myristyl Nicotinate can potentially reduce the viscosity of certain thickeners over time, and Xanthan Gum is known to provide better long-term stability in such formulations. Performing stability tests is always recommended to ensure the desired texture is maintained over time.