Cleansing Balm Formulation: Wax Substitution and Emulsifier Suitability
Question
I want to formulate my own cleansing balm. I have questions about the type of wax to use because I want to avoid Beeswax as I have sensitive skin and am allergic to honey. Can I use Microcrystalline Wax instead?
My proposed formula is approximately as follows:
- Microcrystalline Wax: 10%
- Grape Seed Oil: 20%
- Jojoba Oil: 15%
- Safflower Oil: 10%
- Sweet Almond Oil: 10%
- Oilsify 15: 10%
- Oilsify 30: 10%
For the remaining percentage, I am considering using Oil Milk or Oil Soap. Is this formula suitable?
Actually, I wanted to include TriLaureth-4 Phosphate, Laureth-4, and Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraoleate as well, but these ingredients are not available on your website.
Answer
Cleansing Balm Formulation Advice
It is understandable that you want to avoid Beeswax due to potential allergies, especially if you have a sensitivity to honey. Microcrystalline Wax is a suitable alternative for providing structure and consistency to your cleansing balm. It has a higher melting point than Beeswax, which will result in a firmer balm texture. The 10% concentration you proposed for Microcrystalline Wax is within a typical usage range for balms.
Your proposed formula includes a good selection of carrier oils (Grape Seed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Safflower Oil, Sweet Almond Oil) and the emulsifiers Oilsify 15 and Oilsify 30. This combination of emulsifiers is designed to effectively turn the oil-based balm into a milky emulsion upon contact with water, allowing it to be easily rinsed off and remove makeup and impurities.
Regarding the remaining 15% of your formula, you asked about using Oil Milk or Oil Soap. Since you are already using Oilsify 15 and Oilsify 30, which are effective emulsifiers for cleansing oils and balms, adding Oil Milk or Oil Soap may not be necessary and could potentially alter the texture or rinse-off properties in unintended ways. It is generally recommended to use the Oilsify products together with your chosen oils and wax to achieve the desired cleansing balm function. You can use the remaining 15% for additional amounts of your chosen oils or other oil-soluble ingredients beneficial for the skin, ensuring the total formula adds up to 100%.
You also inquired about including TriLaureth-4 Phosphate, Laureth-4, and Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraoleate. We found that TriLaureth-4 Phosphate and Laureth-4 are available ingredients. Laureth-4 is the main component of Oil Milk. Polyglyceryl-2 Tetraoleate was not found in our database. While TriLaureth-4 Phosphate and Laureth-4 are available, given that you are already using Oilsify 15 and Oilsify 30, these additional emulsifiers may not be required for your cleansing balm formula.
In summary, substituting Beeswax with Microcrystalline Wax at 10% is viable. Your base oil and emulsifier combination is suitable for a cleansing balm. Focus on optimizing the percentages of your chosen oils and the Oilsify emulsifiers to achieve the desired texture and cleansing performance, making the total 100%.
Related Products Mentioned
Jojoba Oil (Golden - Deodorized)
Laureth-4 (Oil Milk™)