Cleansing Foam Formulation Review and Texture Adjustment
Question
I have a cleansing foam formulation and would like advice on achieving specific properties. The desired product should:
- Remove makeup effectively.
- Have a thick, clear, viscous texture, but not be a gel.
- Produce a lot of foam.
- Cleanse thoroughly.
- Leave the skin feeling soft, smooth, and potentially brighter.
- Be suitable for sensitive, acne-prone skin.
- Contain scrub beads (though not listed in the current formula).
Here is the current formulation I am considering:
- Sulfate Free Shampoo Base: 20%
- Coco Wash (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate): 5%
- Glycerin: 5%
- Mild Preserve Eco (Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol): 1%
- Water: 44%
- Xanthan Gum: 5%
- MakeUp-Wash (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides): 8%
- HyaCoat™ (Cationic Hyaluronic Acid): 3%
I understand from previous feedback that the usage rates for Xanthan Gum and HyaCoat™ may need to be checked. Could you please review this formulation and advise on how to adjust it to meet all the desired properties, particularly regarding the texture and the addition of scrub beads?
Answer
Okay, I understand you're asking about a specific cleansing foam formulation designed to remove makeup, with a thick, clear, viscous texture (but not a gel), lots of foam, good cleansing ability, leaving skin soft and smooth, potentially brightening, and suitable for sensitive, acne-prone skin. You've provided a list of ingredients and percentages, along with a conversation snippet highlighting concerns about the usage rates of Xanthan Gum and HyaCoat.
Based on the ingredients provided:
- Sulfate Free Shampoo Base (20%): This is likely the primary surfactant providing cleansing and foaming properties. Being sulfate-free suggests it's intended to be milder, which could be suitable for sensitive skin.
- Coco Wash (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, 5%): A mild surfactant and emollient that helps with cleansing, makeup removal, and skin conditioning, contributing to a soft feel.
- Glycerin (5%): A humectant that draws moisture into the skin, helping to keep it hydrated and soft. It also contributes to the viscosity.
- Mild Preserve Eco (Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, 1%): A preservative blend to keep the product stable and safe from microbial growth.
- Water (44%): The main solvent base.
- Xanthan Gum (5%): This is a thickener used to create viscosity. However, 5% Xanthan Gum is a very high concentration for a liquid cleanser and will likely result in an extremely thick, potentially gel-like texture, which contradicts your preference for "not gel". This aligns with the staff's comment about checking usage rates. Typical usage rates for Xanthan Gum in cleansers are much lower (often 0.1% to 1%). Using 5% will make the product very viscous, possibly too thick to dispense easily, and definitely leaning towards a gel consistency.
- MakeUp-Wash (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, 8%): This ingredient is specifically designed to help dissolve and remove makeup, directly addressing your need for a makeup remover.
- HyaCoat™ (Cationic Hyaluronic Acid, 3%): A form of hyaluronic acid that provides hydration and leaves a soft, smooth feel on the skin. The cationic nature may help it adhere better. The staff also advised checking the usage rate for this ingredient.
Regarding your desired properties:
- Makeup removal and cleansing: The formulation includes ingredients like MakeUp-Wash, Coco Wash, and the Sulfate Free base, which should provide effective cleansing and makeup removal.
- Thick, clear, viscous (not gel): As noted, the 5% Xanthan Gum will make it very thick, likely resulting in a gel-like texture, which might not be what you want. You would likely need to significantly reduce the Xanthan Gum percentage to achieve a viscous liquid without it becoming a gel.
- Scrub beads: The provided ingredient list does not include any scrub beads. If you want a physical exfoliant, you would need to add a suitable ingredient like jojoba beads or polyethylene beads (check regulations).
- Reduces acne / for acne-prone skin: This formulation is primarily a cleanser and makeup remover. While effective cleansing is important for managing acne, it does not contain specific active ingredients typically used to treat acne (like salicylic acid). It is designed for cleansing sensitive skin, which can be beneficial for acne-prone skin, but it's not an acne treatment product itself.
- Lots of foam: The Sulfate Free Shampoo base should provide good foaming.
- Cleans thoroughly but leaves skin soft/smooth/bright: The combination of surfactants cleanses, while Glycerin and HyaCoat contribute to the soft and smooth feel. Brightening is not a direct function of the listed ingredients, although thorough cleansing and hydration can sometimes improve skin's appearance.
- Sensitive skin: The use of a sulfate-free base and hydrating ingredients like Glycerin and HyaCoat suggests it is formulated with sensitivity in mind.
Important Considerations:
- Xanthan Gum Percentage: The 5% Xanthan Gum is highly unusual and will likely create a very thick, potentially unusable, gel. It is crucial to check the manufacturer's recommended usage rate for Xanthan Gum and adjust the percentage significantly lower (likely below 1%) to achieve a viscous liquid texture.
- HyaCoat™ Percentage: Also check the recommended usage rate for HyaCoat™ as advised by the staff.
- Total Percentage: The listed percentages add up to 91%. Ensure the total formulation adds up to 100% by adjusting the water or other ingredients.
In summary, this formulation is designed as a makeup remover and cleanser, potentially suitable for sensitive skin, providing good foam and leaving skin soft. However, the high percentage of Xanthan Gum is problematic for the desired texture and needs adjustment. It does not contain scrub beads or specific acne treatment ingredients.
Related Products Mentioned
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Coco Wash™ (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate)
Mild Preserved Eco™ (Preservative-Free)