Cleansing Gel Formulation Separation Issue
Question
I am making a cleansing gel with the following formula:
- Fractionated Coconut Oil 61%
- Makeup wash (PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides) 10%
- cocowash (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) 5%
- Sugar Gel (Sucrose Stearate Sucrose Palmitate) 10%
- glycerin 10%
- water 2%
- Pitera (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate) 2%
The process involves heating both the oil and water phases to around 80°C and then slowly adding the oil phase into the water phase while stirring. However, the finished product keeps separating. I have made this formula successfully before. What could be causing the separation, and how can I fix it?
Answer
Regarding the issue of your cleansing gel separating, based on the formula you provided (Fractionated Coconut Oil 61%, Makeup wash 10%, cocowash 5%, Sugar Gel 10%, glycerin 10%, water 2%, Pitera 2%), this type of product is an oil-in-water emulsion thickened into a gel.
Separation often occurs when the oil and water phases are not properly emulsified and stabilized. While your formula contains ingredients intended to emulsify and thicken (Sugar Gel) and help with rinsing (Makeup wash, cocowash), achieving a stable emulsion with a high oil load like 61% can be sensitive to the process.
Here are some points to consider and troubleshoot:
Mixing Procedure: The method of heating both phases and slowly adding the oil phase to the water phase while stirring is correct in principle for an O/W emulsion. However, the speed of addition and the intensity and duration of stirring are crucial.
- Ensure both phases are fully heated to around 80°C and well mixed before combining.
- Add the oil phase (Mixture 1: Fractionated Coconut Oil, Makeup wash, cocowash) into the water phase (Mixture 2: Sugar Gel, glycerin, water, Pitera) very slowly in a thin stream, while stirring continuously and vigorously. Using a high-shear mixer (like a stick blender) for a short period during and immediately after combining the phases can significantly help form a stable emulsion.
- Continue stirring (it can be slower after the emulsion forms) while the mixture cools down. Emulsions gain stability as they cool and thicken. Do not stop stirring until it has cooled significantly and thickened.
Raw Material Consistency: Since the formula worked previously, consider if there have been any changes in the raw materials, particularly the Fractionated Coconut Oil or the Sugar Gel. Even subtle variations between batches or suppliers can affect emulsification performance.
Formula Components:
- As the staff mentioned, Pitera (Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate) is generally not suitable for formulations requiring high heat processing, as its beneficial properties can be degraded. It's also less effective in a wash-off product. Removing it might be advisable, although it's unlikely to be the primary cause of oil separation.
- The ratio of emulsifiers/gelling agent (25%) to the oil phase (61%) and water phase (14%) is specific. If process adjustments don't solve the issue, you might need to experiment with slightly increasing the Sugar Gel percentage, but ensure the total formula adds up to 100%.
In summary, the most common reasons for separation in this type of formulation, especially if it worked before, are variations in the mixing process or inconsistencies in raw materials. Focus on perfecting the heating, combining, and stirring/cooling steps.
Related Products Mentioned
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
Fractionated Coconut Oil