Cleansing Oil Emulsification and Glycerin Separation

Question

I want to create a cleansing oil formula that turns milky when rinsed with water, without adding water to the formula itself (to avoid using a preservative).

I tried using Glycerin, Natural Oil, and Oil Milk (2.5%) in an oil base, but the formula separated, and it didn't emulsify well with water.

I also wanted to know:

If Polysorbate 20 or 80 could be used as an emulsifier in this type of formula?
If adding flavor oil (which is oil-soluble) requires a preservative?

The staff suggested a potential formula containing water:

Glycerin 2%
Water 5%
Oil Milk 20%
Remaining percentage as oil

This formula would require a preservative. Alternatively, the staff recommended using Oilsify 15 (Product ID 971) as a water-free emulsifier option.

Could you explain:

Why the separation occurred in my original formula?
How to achieve the desired milky, non-greasy texture upon rinsing?
The best approach to develop the formula, considering both the Oil Milk/water/preservative option and the Oilsify 15 water-free option?

MySkinRecipes Expert · Accepted Answer

Advice on Glycerin Separation in Formula

Based on your formula and the feedback provided, the separation you observed is likely due to the incompatibility of glycerin with the oil phase and the insufficient amount of Oil Milk used as an emulsifier. Glycerin is water-soluble and doesn't easily mix with oils without a proper emulsifier.

Here's a breakdown of the points and recommendations:

Why Separation Occurred: Glycerin (Product ID 143) does not blend well with natural oils (Product ID 27) and Oil Milk (Product ID 858) at low concentrations of the emulsifier. The 2.5% Oil Milk in your original formula was not enough to keep the glycerin stably mixed within the oil phase.
Preservative (Product ID 34): A preservative is necessary if your formula contains water (Product ID 838) to prevent microbial contamination. If your formula is completely water-free and stored properly, a preservative is generally not needed.
Polysorbate: Polysorbate 20 or 80 is not suitable for emulsifying this type of formula according to the staff's response.
Flavor Oil (Product ID 105): You can add flavor oil or fragrance oil to your formula as they are oil-soluble. Adding flavor oil itself does not necessitate adding a preservative if the formula is water-free.
Solutions for Separation and Desired Texture:
- Option 1 (Using Oil Milk): To prevent separation and achieve a better milky texture upon contact with water, you need to significantly increase the concentration of Oil Milk (Product ID 858). The staff suggested a trial formula: Glycerin 2%, Water 5%, Oil Milk 20%, and the remaining percentage as oil. In this case, you would need to add a preservative (Product ID 34) because water is included. Mixing glycerin with the water component before combining with the oil phase might help.
- Option 2 (Alternative Emulsifier): If you prefer to avoid adding water and thus avoid using a preservative, the staff recommended using Oilsify 15 (Product ID 971) as an alternative emulsifier. Oilsify 15 is designed for oil-based cleansers that emulsify and turn milky when mixed with water during use, without requiring water in the original product formulation.

To achieve a thicker consistency and the desired milky, non-greasy feel after rinsing, increasing the emulsifier concentration is crucial. Consider trying the staff's suggested ratio with Oil Milk and water (remembering the preservative) or switching to Oilsify 15 if a water-free formula is your priority.