Cleansing Water Formulation Advice

Thank you for reaching out regarding your cleansing water formulation. It's understandable that eye irritation is a concern, especially for a product used around the eyes. Here is some advice on selecting a preservative and adding anti-acne and whitening ingredients while aiming for gentleness.

1. Preservative Selection

To minimize eye irritation in a cleansing water, it's best to choose a preservative known for its gentleness, particularly around the eye area. Based on your needs, consider the following water-soluble options:

• Eye Preserved™ (Polyhexamethylene Biguanide, PHMB): This preservative was developed for use in contact lens solutions and is suitable for eye products and sensitive skin. It is water-soluble and can be used at a rate of 0.5-1.5%. The optimal pH range is 3-6.5, but it works within 3-8. Note that it is incompatible with anionic ingredients like Xanthan Gum or Carbomer.
• Mild Preserved™ COS: A broad-spectrum, water-soluble, and odorless preservative effective in a wide pH range of 2-8. Use at a rate of 0.75-1.5%. Mix below 45°C. This is a good general-purpose option if Eye Preserved™ is not suitable due to compatibility issues.
• Coco-Preserve™: A natural, water-soluble, broad-spectrum preservative derived from coconut extract. It works in a pH range of 4-8 and is used at 1-2%. Avoid heat above 50°C during mixing.

Choose one preservative based on compatibility with your other ingredients and desired properties.

2. Adding Anti-Acne and Whitening Ingredients

Yes, you can add anti-acne and whitening ingredients to your cleansing water formula, provided they are water-soluble and suitable for a leave-on product used near the eyes. Select ingredients known for their gentleness.

Anti-Acne Ingredients:

• Zinc PCA: Helps reduce oiliness, supports wound healing, and has anti-inflammatory properties. It is water-soluble and gentle. Use at 0.2-1.0%. It works best in a pH range of 4-6.
• Pep®-Acne (Oligopeptide-10): An anti-microbial peptide effective against acne-causing bacteria. It is water-soluble. Use at 5%. Avoid heat during mixing.

Whitening Ingredients:

• Tranexamic Acid (Trans-White™): Helps brighten skin and reduce blemishes by reducing melanin formation. It is water-soluble and gentle. Use up to 3%. It dissolves directly in water and works in a pH range of 3-8.
• AEPWhite™ (Aminoethylphosphinic Acid): A water-soluble ingredient that stabilizes DOPAchrome, reducing melanin production. It offers good stability and safety. Use at 0.1-1.0% (recommended 0.5%). Mix in the water phase, avoiding heat above 60°C.
• MelaninTerminate™: A protein extract from pearls containing oligopeptides that inhibit melanin production through a different mechanism (endothelin antagonist). It is water-soluble and used at a very low rate of 0.01-0.1%. Mix in water, avoid heat.

Important Considerations When Adding Actives:

• Solubility: Ensure the chosen actives are water-soluble and compatible with your cleansing water base.
• pH Range: Check the optimal pH range for each active and the preservative to ensure they are compatible within the final formula's pH.
• Compatibility: Verify that the chosen ingredients do not interact negatively with each other or the existing components of your cleansing water base (Coco Wash™, MakeUp-Wash™, glycerin). Eye Preserved™ is incompatible with anionic polymers, which might be present in some bases or added ingredients.
• Irritation: Even gentle actives can potentially cause irritation, especially in sensitive areas like the eyes. Start with lower recommended percentages and test on a small area first.
• Stability & Challenge Testing: After formulating, it is crucial to perform stability testing to ensure the product remains stable over time and a challenge test to confirm the preservative system effectively protects against microbial growth.

By carefully selecting a gentle preservative and water-soluble actives, you can create a cleansing water that is effective and less likely to cause eye irritation.