Cleansing Water & Toner Formulation Issues: Stickiness and Skin Irritation
Question
I am a beginner making my own skincare products and have questions about two formulas:
Cleansing Water: I tried the following formula and found it sticky. I want a cleansing water that effectively removes makeup and sunscreen, is non-irritating, free of alcohol and oil, doesn't leave a sticky residue, and can ideally be used without rinsing.
- make up wash 10%
- PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 10%
- glycerin 10%
- Aloe Vera Extract 1%
- nature preserve 1.5%
- Water remaining
The staff suggested removing Glycerin 10% and Aloe Vera Extract 1% and reducing PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate. Could you provide further advice on achieving the desired non-sticky, non-rinsing properties?
Toner: The staff said my toner formula is suitable, but I experienced stinging, redness, and potential breakouts after use. The formula includes Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) and Willow Bark Extract, both at 5% concentration.
- Why might I be experiencing these issues?
- What should I do to resolve them?
Additionally, I have general questions about the process:
- For formulas with all water-soluble ingredients, what is the correct mixing order?
- How long after mixing is the product ready to use?
Answer
Hello! I understand you are new to making your own skincare products. I'm happy to provide further advice based on your conversation with the staff.
For the Cleansing Water Formula:
You want a cleansing water that effectively removes makeup and sunscreen, is non-irritating, free of alcohol and oil, and doesn't leave a sticky residue, ideally usable without rinsing.
- Regarding Active Ingredients: As the staff advised, adding high amounts of active ingredients to a rinse-off product like cleansing water provides minimal benefits, as these ingredients need time to penetrate the skin. Using a small amount (e.g., Aloe Vera Extract 1%) is sufficient for basic properties. Other active ingredients like Double Hyaluron Liquid or Willow Bark Extract are best used in leave-on products like toners or serums.
- Regarding Stickiness: You mentioned the formula you tried (make up wash 10%, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate 10%, glycerin 10%, Aloe Vera Extract 1%, nature preserve 1.5%, Water remaining) felt sticky. The staff's suggestion to remove Glycerin 10% and Aloe Vera Extract 1% and reduce the amount of PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate is correct. Glycerin and Aloe Vera Extract in high amounts can contribute to a sticky feel. Reducing or removing these ingredients and potentially reducing some surfactants will help achieve a lighter, less sticky texture as you desire.
- Regarding No-Rinse Use: Although this formula is similar to cleansing waters on the market advertised as no-rinse, the staff still recommends rinsing, especially for sensitive and acne-prone skin, to ensure no residue is left behind that could potentially clog pores or cause irritation. If you truly want a comfortable feel after wiping without rinsing, you might need to further reduce the amount of surfactants, but this will also reduce cleansing effectiveness.
For the Toner Formula:
The staff indicated your toner formula is suitable in terms of ingredients, but you experienced stinging, redness, and potential breakouts after use.
- Regarding Stinging/Redness: The staff asked important follow-up questions about your current skin condition (recent exfoliation, acne treatments, etc.) and your measurement method. These are crucial factors to rule out external causes or inaccurate concentrations.
- Possible Causes:
- Active Concentration: While ingredients like Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) and Willow Bark Extract have good properties, at 5% concentration each, they might be too high for sensitive or compromised skin. Niacinamide at 5% can cause temporary tingling or redness in some individuals, and Willow Bark Extract, containing Natural Salicylic Acid, can cause exfoliation that might lead to irritation if the skin is not accustomed or is delicate.
- Skin Adjustment: It's possible your skin is adjusting, but significant redness and potential breakouts suggest it might be more than just normal adjustment.
- Recommendations:
- Check Skin Condition and Measurement: First, ensure your skin is not unusually sensitive from other products and that your ingredient measurements were accurate.
- Reduce Concentration: If you are confident about your measurements and skin condition, consider reducing the concentration of Safe-B3 (Niacinamide) and/or Willow Bark Extract. You could start with Safe-B3 at 2-3% and Willow Bark Extract at 1-2% and gradually increase if your skin tolerates it.
- Patch Test: Before applying to your entire face, try the adjusted toner on a small area (like your jawline or behind your ear) to test for irritation.
- Temporarily Stop Use: If stinging, redness, or potential breakouts persist or worsen, you should temporarily stop using this toner formula.
Mixing Steps:
As the staff mentioned, for formulas with all water-soluble ingredients, the order of mixing is less critical than ensuring all ingredients are fully dissolved and well combined. Stirring or blending until the mixture is clear is sufficient.
Time to Use:
Once all ingredients are fully dissolved and the mixture is clear and uniform, the product is ready to use immediately. There is no need to wait.
Additional Precautions:
- When making your own products, it's very important to use clean equipment and containers to prevent microbial contamination.
- Even with a preservative (nature preserve), homemade products should be stored properly (ideally in a cool place) and used within a reasonable timeframe (perhaps around 3-6 months, depending on cleanliness and ingredients) for quality and safety.
Related Products Mentioned
Safe-B3™ (Vitamin B3, Niacinamide)
Glycerin (USP/Food Grade)
L-Carnitine (Carnitine)
Coco Wash™ (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate)
Zinc PCA
Double Hyaluron Liquid