Clear Anti-Aging Serum Formulation with HPR Retinol and Bakuchiol

Based on your formula for a clear anti-aging serum, here is an analysis of the compatibility and recommendations for stability and clarity:

1. Formula Compatibility and Clarity

• Clarity Challenge: Your formula contains several oil-soluble ingredients: Pure-Bakuchiol™, Protec™ OX, Protec™ UV, and Perfect-A 10™ (which is in a DMI base but contains oil-soluble Retinoid). To achieve a clear serum, you must use a solubilizer. Without one, the formula will be cloudy or separate.
• Solubilizer Recommendation: I recommend adding Flora Solve™ Clear at a ratio of approximately 3-5 parts for every 1 part of the oil-soluble components to ensure the serum remains transparent.
• Gelling Agent (Aristoflex AVC): At 0.3%, the viscosity will be very light (liquid-like). For a typical serum texture, 0.6% - 1.0% is usually preferred. Aristoflex AVC is sensitive to electrolytes, but at the concentrations of Vitamin B3 (3%) and B5 (1%), it should remain stable, provided your Cica extract does not contain high salt content.

2. Stability and Irritation

• Low Irritation: The combination of Perfect-A 10™ (HPR) and Pure-Bakuchiol™ is excellent for anti-aging with minimal irritation compared to traditional Retinol.
• Stability: You have correctly included Protec™ OX, Protec™ UV, and Disodium EDTA, which are essential for protecting the Vitamin A from oxidation and light degradation.

3. Recommended Mixing Procedure

To ensure stability and clarity, follow these steps:

1. Water Phase: Dissolve Disodium EDTA, Safe-B3™, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, and Odor-Kill™ in Water.
2. Oil/Active Phase:
   • Mix Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI) with Protec™ OX. Heat gently (approx. 70-80°C) until the powder is completely dissolved.
   • Crucial: Allow the DMI mixture to cool down to room temperature before adding Perfect-A 10™, Pure-Bakuchiol™, and Protec™ UV (to prevent heat damage to the Retinoid).
3. Solubilization: Mix the Oil/Active Phase (Step 2) with Flora Solve™ Clear (suggested 3-5%). Stir well until uniform.
4. Combining: Slowly pour the Solubilized Oil Phase (Step 3) into the Water Phase (Step 1) while stirring. The mixture should remain clear.
5. Gelling: Sprinkle Aristoflex AVC into the mixture and blend until a smooth gel forms.
6. Preservation: Add Microcare PHC and the Cica extract (if liquid). Adjust pH to 4.0–6.5 for optimal stability.

Recommended Ingredients:

• Perfect-A 10™ (Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate): High-efficiency, low-irritation Vitamin A.
• Pure-Bakuchiol™: Natural retinol alternative that helps stabilize Vitamin A.
• Flora Solve™ Clear: Essential for making the oil-soluble actives transparent in water.
• Protec™ OX & Protec™ UV: Stabilizers for the active ingredients.
• Aristoflex AVC: Gelling agent for a premium skin feel.
• Safe-B3™ & Panthenol (B5): For skin barrier support and soothing.
• Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI): Penetration enhancer.
• Odor-Kill™: To neutralize any base odors from the ingredients.
• Microcare PHC: Broad-spectrum preservative.