Clear Oil Gel Formulation: Precipitation and Mixing Issues

Asked by: kimjidjee On: September 26, 2015 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am trying to make a Clear Oil Gel according to a recipe. The first step says to dissolve Sugar Gel (Sucrose Stearate/Sucrose Palmitate) in Glycerin and water by mixing and heating to 70-80°C while stirring until it becomes a cream.

However, the staff replied that manual stirring is not enough and a high-speed blender is needed to ensure the Sugar Gel powder fully dissolves before the next step, otherwise it will cause precipitation.

Based on this, I have the following questions:

  1. What specifically caused the precipitation in my batch?
  2. Can the batch I already made be fixed or used?
  3. Is it necessary to use all ingredients from MySkinRecipes, especially the Sugar Gel? I have some ingredients already. How can I adapt using the ingredients I have?

Answer

Clear Oil Gel Formulation Issue

1. What caused the precipitation?

Based on the staff's reply, the most likely cause of the precipitation is insufficient mixing in the first step. The "Sugar Gel" (Sucrose Stearate/Sucrose Palmitate) is an emulsifier and thickener. It needs to be fully dissolved or properly dispersed in the water and glycerin phase using a high-speed mixer (like an immersion blender or a lab mixer) at the specified temperature (70-80°C) until a smooth, homogenous cream is formed before adding the oil phase. Manual stirring is generally not sufficient to properly hydrate and disperse this type of ingredient, leading to it not being able to effectively emulsify the oil when added, resulting in separation and precipitation.

2. Can the current batch be fixed or used?

It might be possible to fix the current batch, but success is not guaranteed. You can try reheating the mixture gently back to 70-80°C and then using a high-speed mixer (like an immersion blender) to blend it vigorously for several minutes. The goal is to force the "Sugar Gel" to properly emulsify the oils. Keep blending until the mixture appears smooth and homogenous. If it becomes smooth and stable after cooling, it might be usable. However, if the ingredients have separated severely or been heated for too long, it might not fully recover.

3. Is it necessary to use ingredients from Myskin, and how can I adapt using ingredients I already have?

It is not strictly necessary to use all ingredients from MySkinRecipes, but for certain key ingredients, especially emulsifiers and thickeners like "Sugar Gel" (Sucrose Stearate/Sucrose Palmitate), the specific product from a supplier is formulated to work with a particular method and concentration.

  • Standard Ingredients: Ingredients like Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Olive Oil, and Castor Oil are common cosmetic ingredients. If you have cosmetic-grade versions of these from other reputable suppliers, you can generally use them. Ensure your olive oil and castor oil are suitable for cosmetic use (some food-grade oils may not be processed or stored in a way that is ideal for cosmetics).
  • Emulsifier/Thickener ("Sugar Gel"): The "Sugar Gel" (Sucrose Stearate/Palmitate) is the critical ingredient for creating the gel texture and emulsifying the oil. Different suppliers' versions of Sucrose Stearate/Palmitate might have different particle sizes, purity, or co-ingredients that affect their performance and the required processing method or concentration. While the INCI name is the same, the specific product can differ. If you use a Sucrose Stearate/Palmitate from a different supplier, you might need to adjust the concentration or the processing method (temperature, mixing time/speed) to achieve the desired result. It's often recommended to start with the supplier's recommended usage instructions for their specific product.

For troubleshooting a formula, it is easiest to replicate the formula exactly as recommended by the source, using the specified ingredients and method. Once you have successfully made the formula as intended, you can then experiment with substituting ingredients one by one if desired, understanding that substitutions may require adjustments.

In summary, the issue is most likely related to the processing method for the "Sugar Gel". Ensure you use a high-speed blender in step 1. You can try to salvage the current batch by reheating and blending vigorously. While standard ingredients can often be substituted, the emulsifier ("Sugar Gel") is best sourced as recommended or substituted with caution, potentially requiring formula or process adjustments.