Cold Process Cream/Lotion Formulation Issues and Acid Resistance
Question
I am trying to create a cream or lotion using a cold process method. I am encountering issues with the texture not being smooth or becoming clumpy/watery. I plan to include active ingredients, some of which may be heat-sensitive or acidic (like AHA/BHA).
What could be causing these texture problems, and what ingredients or methods are recommended for cold process formulations, especially when dealing with heat-sensitive or acidic active ingredients?
Answer
Cold Process Cream/Lotion Formulation and Troubleshooting
Creating creams or lotions using a cold process is possible, but the success and smoothness of the final product depend on the type of emulsifier or thickener used and the mixing method.
Problem: Non-smooth, Clumping Texture
This issue often arises from using thickeners/emulsifiers not suitable for cold process or from incomplete dispersion of these ingredients in the water or oil phase. It is recommended to choose ingredients specifically designed for cold process and strictly follow the mixing instructions provided by the supplier.
Active Ingredients and Heat
Each active ingredient has different heat sensitivity. Some vitamins, natural extracts, or peptides can degrade when exposed to high heat. Using a cold process helps avoid this problem. If a specific active ingredient requires heat to dissolve, consider dissolving a small amount separately with heat and then slowly adding it to the finished and cooled cream/lotion base.
Acid-Resistant Formulations
When using acidic active ingredients like AHA/BHA, the pH of the formulation decreases. Many thickeners are not stable in acidic conditions, causing the texture to become watery. You should choose ingredients specifically stated to work in low pH ranges or be acid-resistant.
Recommended Emulsifiers/Thickeners for Cold Process and/or Acid Resistance
- CreamMaker EG™: An emulsifier and thickener specifically for cold process. Provides good texture and is easy to use by mixing into the water phase.
- CreamMaker Acid™: Developed specifically for acidic formulations. Works well in formulas containing AHA, helping the texture remain stable.
- Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer: A thickener that works well without heat. It is stable across a wide pH range (3-12) and can handle up to 20% oil.
- Sepimax Zen: A highly salt and pH tolerant thickener/stabilizer. Helps create a gel texture in the water phase.
Choosing these ingredients along with correct mixing techniques will help you achieve a smooth and stable cream or lotion texture, even in acidic formulations.
