Color Intensity and Oxidation in Blush Formulation with Viscolam AT 100P
Question
I am preparing a blush formulation using `Viscolam AT 100P` with sappanwood extract for color. I observed that the resulting color is darker compared to other formulations using traditional emulsifiers, specifically `Tween 20` and `Span 60`, as well as formulations prepared using the saponification technique.
Could you please explain why the color from the sappanwood extract appears darker than expected in the `Viscolam AT 100P` formulation?
I hypothesize that this might be due to the blush formulation having more exposure to air than other formulas, leading to easier oxygen ingress and subsequent oxidation, which then changes the color. Is this a plausible explanation?
Answer
The observation that a blush formulation using Viscolam AT 100P results in a darker color from sappanwood extract compared to formulations with traditional emulsifiers (Tween 20, Span 60) or saponification can be attributed to several factors:
- Enhanced Dispersion and Solubilization: Viscolam AT 100P is a polymeric emulsifier and thickener that can create a highly stable and fine emulsion or dispersion. This finer dispersion of the sappanwood extract's color compounds (like brazilin) could lead to a more intense and perceived darker color, as the chromophores are more uniformly distributed and effectively absorb light. Traditional emulsifiers might not achieve the same level of dispersion.
- pH Environment: The pH of a formulation significantly influences the color of natural extracts, especially those containing anthocyanins or similar compounds like brazilin from sappanwood. Viscolam AT 100P might create a different pH environment within the formulation compared to systems using Tween 20/Span 60 or saponification. A shift in pH could alter the chemical structure of the color compounds, leading to a darker or more intense hue.
- Oxidation (User's Hypothesis): Your hypothesis regarding increased air exposure and oxidation is plausible. Sappanwood extract contains brazilin, which can oxidize to brazilein, a darker red compound. If the formulation prepared with Viscolam AT 100P somehow traps more air, creates a larger surface area for oxygen contact, or forms a matrix that promotes the oxidation process (e.g., by stabilizing the oxidized form or facilitating oxygen diffusion), this could lead to a more rapid or extensive conversion of brazilin to brazilein, resulting in a darker color. The physical structure and stability of the emulsion or gel formed by Viscolam AT 100P could indeed influence oxygen permeability and interaction with the extract.
It is likely a combination of these factors, particularly the enhanced dispersion/solubilization and potential differences in pH or oxidation kinetics, that contributes to the observed darker color when using Viscolam AT 100P in your blush formulation.
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