Combining Active Ingredients and Choosing Anti-Irritants for Spot Corrector

Asked by: jn_andy On: April 01, 2016 Product Type: Cosmetics

Question

I am developing a spot corrector for melasma and dark spots using Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, and Azelaic Acid. I have proposed the following formulations:

  • Daytime: Ethyl Ascorbic acid 3% + Tranexamic Acid 3%
  • Nighttime: Ethyl Ascorbic acid 3% + Azelaic Acid 10%

Are these formulations possible?

Additionally, I am considering using anti-irritant ingredients such as Allantoin, Creatine 100, Bisabolol, and Calendula Extract. Should I use just one of these, or is it better to combine multiple? Which of these four anti-irritant ingredients would be the best choice?

Answer

Hello,

Regarding your questions about using Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, and Azelaic Acid for a spot corrector targeting melasma and dark spots, here is a summary of the information provided by the staff:

Suitable Time for Use:

  • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and other Vitamin C derivatives: Can be used both day and night.
  • Tranexamic Acid: Can be used both day and night.
  • Azelaic Acid: Due to its exfoliating properties, it is recommended for nighttime use only.

Combining Ingredients:

  • Ethyl Ascorbic Acid can be combined with other ingredients, except for Safe-B3 (Niacinamide).
  • Tranexamic Acid and Azelaic Acid are ingredients that may cause irritation. If you wish to use them together in the same formula, the concentration of each should be reduced.
  • Regarding the formulations you proposed:
    • Daytime: Ethyl Ascorbic acid 3% + Tranexamic Acid 3%
    • Nighttime: Ethyl Ascorbic acid 3% + Azelaic Acid 10%

      The staff confirmed that these formulations are possible.

Product Texture (Gel vs. Cream):

  • This question has been forwarded to user C7 for further advice.

Choosing Anti-Irritant Ingredients:

  • You are considering four anti-irritant ingredients: Allantoin, Creatine 100, Bisabolol, and Calendula Extract.
  • The staff advises that using a variety of ingredients at lower proportions is often more effective than using a single ingredient at a high concentration.
  • If incorporating multiple ingredients does not overly complicate the mixing process, the staff suggests considering adding all four anti-irritant ingredients at appropriate concentrations.
  • Comparing Bisabolol and Calendula Extract (the water-soluble type available from the company), the staff indicated that Bisabolol provides better efficacy. This is because the water-soluble Calendula Extract available lacks some oil-soluble components that offer higher efficacy.

We hope this information is helpful.