Combining Collagen, Vitamin C, and Peptides in Formulations

Yes, it is possible to combine ingredients like collagen, Vitamin C, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 (often referred to as C-Peptide or Matrixyl-related peptides), and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (Argireline) in a single cosmetic formulation. However, successful formulation requires careful consideration of several factors:

• Solubility: Ensure all ingredients are compatible with the base of your formulation (water-based, oil-based, or emulsion). Some ingredients are water-soluble (like Hydrolyzed Collagen, Egg Shell Membrane Collagen, L-ascorbic acid, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, and Acetyl Hexapeptide-8), while others are oil-soluble (like Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate).
• pH Levels: Different ingredients have optimal pH ranges for stability and efficacy. For example, L-ascorbic acid requires a low pH (ideally 3.5-4.0), while Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 works best between pH 3.5-6.5, and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate prefers pH 5.0-5.5. Combining ingredients with significantly different pH requirements can be challenging and may affect stability and effectiveness.
• Temperature Sensitivity: Many active ingredients, especially peptides and some forms of Vitamin C, are sensitive to heat. They should typically be added during the cooling phase of the formulation process, usually below 40°C (or even lower for L-ascorbic acid).
• Compatibility: While these ingredients are generally considered compatible, always check specific supplier information for any known incompatibilities.

Determining Concentration of Other Ingredients

To determine the concentration of other ingredients in your formula, you need to consider the total percentage of your formulation, which is always 100%.

1. Determine the percentages of your active ingredients: Based on the recommended usage rates and your desired efficacy, decide the percentage for each active ingredient (Collagen, Vitamin C, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8). Recommended ranges are typically provided by the supplier:
   • Collagen HP: 1-5% (recommend 5%)
   • Egg Shell Membrane Collagen: 1-5% (recommend 5% for aged skin, 2-3% for normal skin)
   • Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid): 3-15% (3% for general wrinkles, 15% for whitening)
   • Perfect-C™ (Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate): 1-10% (recommend 5%)
   • Pep®-PP4 (Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4): 1-7% (recommend 5%)
   • Acetyl Hexapeptide-8: 3-10%
2. Determine the percentages of essential base ingredients: Include percentages for necessary components like emulsifiers (if creating an emulsion), thickeners, preservatives, humectants, chelating agents (like Disodium EDTA, often needed with Vitamin C), and any other functional ingredients.
3. Calculate the percentage of the base: Sum the percentages of all active ingredients and essential base ingredients. Subtract this sum from 100%. The remaining percentage is typically the amount of your main solvent, usually purified water.

For example, if your active ingredients and other necessary components total 15% of the formula, the remaining 85% would typically be water.

Always start with a well-tested base formula and gradually incorporate active ingredients, adjusting concentrations based on desired performance, stability, and cost. It is highly recommended to create small test batches to check for stability, compatibility, and efficacy before scaling up.